I’d appreciate any advice!
I just rebuilt my trans (g360)and transfer case (Np205). I figured while I had everything out I may as well replace the clutch. I ordered the clutch through a trusted local parts store. They said it was a direct oem replacement. It also came with a new throw out bearing. I followed all torque specifications going back together. Long story short, by depressing the clutch pedal it will not depress the clutch enough to select gears. I’ve manually depressed the clutch using a pry bar and it will go enough to free up my driveline in gear. I don’t know weather the clutch is just too thick or if either the master or slave cylinder aren’t strong enough for the new clutch. I’ve tried putting a spacer between the slave cylinder and the
clutch fork, but no matter how big the spacer is the master cylinder will only press so hard. Before I go all the way back apart and put my old clutch back does anyone have anything helpful?
Much thanks!
btw. I did bleed the clutch.

 

Is the pivot point on the clutch pedal badly worn?
Getting air out of those clutch hydros is a real pain. I usually buy pre bleed complete master, line and slave set ups if I need one for that reason.

The clutch in the pictures looks like an OEM clutch 2nd gen style clutch, usually made by LUK, which should work fine. I just thought it was worth mentioning that the clutch in the pictures is not a '89-'93 OEM style Sach clutch.

On a side note those hollow square tube leaf spring "blocks" on your front axle scare me...

 

Oliver!
Thanks for the reply. I removed the pushrod And it isn’t terribly worn BUT I put a spacer between it and the master. It seems to be releasing the clutch now. So I need to find an adjustable push rod. All I have in it at the time is a socket 😂 and as for the hollow tube cheap lift kit. I just bought the truck off a kid in Arizona. I think the nearest parts store was 300 miles up hill both ways!!!! Some of the things he did.... I’m working on restoring everything back to NORMAL

I appreciate the knowledge on the clutch! I hope it gets a down the road a ways. The brand name was Rhino... the “mid grade”.
Another question since I’m new to these. Is there supposed to be a bracket on the right side of the transfer case?

 

It is hard to see in the picture, but are there should be two "wings" that go from the transmission crossmember to the upper frame?
There is nothing that bolts into the holes on the T-case in an OEM 1st gen.

 

When I was still pulling wrenches for a living, I had a similar problem with a Corvette after replacing the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing with new replacements straight from the Chevrolet parts counter all in GM boxes...I couldn't make the clutch release with any amount of adjustment or bleeding...I finally solved it by trimming a longer rod from an old brake master cylinder I had...The owner was not the original buyer so the only answer I could come up with was one of the previous owners might have replaced the clutch with aftermarket parts needing a shorter rod...

And as Oliver can probably attest to, it pays to have a pile of old parts lying around just in case......Ben

 

. I have never seen a lift kit like that before does the truck drive ok.With the weight of the Cummins if you like everything else you may want to consume a solid block under the spring or something different than that down the road . Also how but some Pics of the Ride

 

I would guess your fork is possibly worn or bent. I have heard they are being reproduced again... I do see it here, but wonder if its the most affordable route
https://torqueking.com/product/10523...diesel-trucks/

I don't like the hollow lift block either. I run a 1" solid block bolted through the pack and some hanger/shackle mods. Jungle - over at ramchargercentral - makes a really nice front hanger upgrade with a few inches built-in.

 

I made some sort of temporary repair. I hope it lasts forever but I didn’t want to take the pedal off. I’d like to get rid of the “lift” all together. It puts my 4wd driveline on a horrible angle and I’m sure it’s eating at my steering. She’s a work in progress.

 

That clutch hydraulic bracket coming through your firewall looks pretty custom. I bet that has a lot [everything] to do with your problem.

Nice looking truck and welcome to DTR.

 

Custom? Nahhhh haha

 

Yeah that is pretty Kustom.
That is making the master further out from the firewall, so you needed to lengthen the rod.

 

When I got my trans rebuilt I also replaced the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Let the wife take it out shopping and she had the same exact problem. The clutch wouldn't disengage enough to let the trans go in gear. I looked at it and pushed the pedal down and up a few times and it started working. I went and bought a new master/slave cylinders and a new plastic line. When I got home I assembled the master/slave and line on the bench and primed/bled all the air out of it. I installed the slave with no problem but the clevis at the master was worn just like yours. The new master came with a new plastic bearing so I mixed up some JB weld and filled the worn spot on the shaft and I put the plastic bearing on and let it set up. Then I assembled the clevis and so far everything is working fine.

Edwin

 

Another option on that worn clutch pedal pin would be to grind out the old pin from the backside, buy a tractor hitch pin and trim it down to length, then weld it into the clutch pedal. The tractor hitch pin is very hard and should have quite a long life before it begins to wear through. I did this on my first gen when I realized I wasn’t getting full pedal travel. While you’re at it you could also get the threaded heim joint end to make a proper adjustable push rod that should last as long as the “new” clutch pedal pin. All this should be available at a local Tractor Supply or Atwoods

 

ya REALLY want to make getting those tubes out from under your front springs a #1 priority... I used to own a towing company here in Tucson Az, back in 2003 we hadda deal with several accidents (2 fatal) caused by idiots doin exactly that type of lift.. the mild steel 1/4" tube (which is all that is now supporting the entire weight of the front of your truck) deforms under the torque and weight put on its front and rear edges causing it to shift while your going down the road the effect is very similar to having the steering wheel come off in your hands... lift blocks on front axles is a no no in general in 4x4 circles (Thats been my hobby/profession for comin up on 40 years) the reason is the blocks can shift causin safety issues, ya always go with springs or shackles as the torque of the axles being under power while the wheels are turned can accelerate wear and shifting etc.. blocks on rear axles while not optimal (creats a torque amplifier which increases spring wrap the taller the blocks the more amplification same as putting a cheater bar on a wrench) however the safty issues are greatly reduced as opposed to doing it on a front axle since rear axles don't steer the truck...

 

Well you plain scared the daylights out of me. I’ll be finding something to replace them with ASAP. I’d just remove them all together but then the tires would surely rub.. I’ll find a way to make them more solid! I appreciate the concern!!