I lengthened my clutch master rod and when I push the the pedal it releases most of the friction right away, but even when bottomed out in the master there is still some friction happening. Makes it difficult to go from, say reverse to first without catching a dog. Can't figure it out. No weird noises.

 

How old is the system?

Reason I say that is I think mine is doing the same thing, everything is now new except the release assy, and I am doing that next as soon as I decide it is worth the extra for the SB setup.

I know the guy who owned Greenie before me spent mucho bucks before they figured out changing the hydros fixed the problem, that was right around the 100K mark, and here I am again at the second 100K mark.

What sucks is I could have sworn I saw the South Bend extra duty assy for around 230 bucks not long ago, now they all seem to be 315 bucks.

 

I have about 275k on the clutch, the clutch master and slave are new. I bought a second gen sealed setup and designed an adapter bracket and am producing them.
This clutch thing has been driving me crazy.

 

If the clutch is dragging and you've confirmed the slave cylinder is pushing the clutch fork the correct distance, then the only thing left is a seizing/dragging pilot bearing, or there's something wrong with the clutch disc/pressure plate assembly.

 

It would make sense if it were the throwout bearing, but I would think I would be hearing a noise or feeling a vibration... just going to have to bite the bullet I guess.

 

Throwout bearings dont usually cause a problem like described because all they do is press on the fingers of the pressure plate. If the TO bearing is bad then they usually fall apart completely and make lots of noise.

But rather if the pilot bearing is bad then the input shaft is not spinning freely as it should. The pilot on the OEM clutch is an open exposed needle design which is small and weak. Yes its better than a bushing but the needle bearings are notorious for going out as people habitually hold their clutch pedal in while sitting stopped in gear. Horrible for the pilot bearing.

Pilot bearings dont have to make noise either, and if they're not totally seized but shot from falling apart then the input shaft wont stay centered and wander which will also cause the clutch disc to touch the flywheel and pressure plate when the clutch pedal is in.

 

I once had a slightly bent clutch disc that caused similar problems. It drove me nuts but it wasn't a vehicle I drove very much. I had the transmission and transfer case in and out so many times trying to figure it out, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, slave and master cylinders, not in any order. In the end I just replaced the clutch disc even though it was almost new, problem solved.

 

All good suggestions. I tried a bushing once and it cost me an input shaft and countershaft gear when it failed. I don't want to do that again.
Guess I will stop pulling motorhomes until I get it fixed!

I don't really want to go through pulling transfer case and tranny without replacing the disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing, which means I have to wait for a bit. South Bend recommended 13125-OR, which is like $485 which I need to hold 400hp and 800lb/ft... what is blood going for these days?

 

I think you still get a cookie and some orange juice.

 

Haha... Truck money takes away from 440 Dart money.