Well, read my sig. I've been away from the computer for a while working on the truck. I built a wrench today to loosen the lock nut on the idle screw in hopes of fueling a little more for the pickup pulls next weekend.

Now I'm not complaining as I flat out can't believe how hard this truck is running, but with my post turbo EGT at 950 F (wide open, unloaded) and my idle down to 700 rpm after swapping in pods and bumping the pump I think a little more fuel is in order. Problem is that there is little idle adjustment left before the lever is touching the pump. I am looking for 1100 F post turbo on a hot day with the sled on. I wonder if I might be flirting with runaway as well, as the last time I turned it up I had to use a 1/4" drive ratchet due to incresed drag on the screw. this was after the threads were cleaned up.

What should I do?

 

From what I have learned here, I'd go ahead and get the tooling to set the IP timing as it should be (actually measured). And run it on up to around 1.8mm. (Or more if you've the nads. )

Find out what the boost map is for that turbo and install a manual boost controller set accordingly (assuming it's waste-gated).

Both will drop the EGT a little and the timing thing will get a little more upper RPM HP in the process.

If I'm not mistaken, the timing adjustment will drop the idle a bit as well.

Hope this helps.

 

I agree on advancing the timing.
As far as the fuel screw goes, I cranked down on mine till it almost would not go anymore. Maybe I should not tell you this. Its your engine.
Anyway, My idle screw is no longer in use
I read on a post one night that someone cranked theres all the way in and the engine almost ran away but it wont, it will just rev quite a way and not run away completely.
So far I have seen 1200 post turbo many times, I would not keep it there too long, like 2 or 3 seconds. In a quick pull 1200 would not scare me.
Good luck on the pulls

 

For a pull, ignore the pyrometer. At the end of the pull, run it at 1500 RPM or so for around 5 minutes before you shut it off.

With POD's, push the pump as far towards the head as you can. Those injectors need all the timing they can get.

 

As far as advance goes, I have the AFC cover about 1/2" away from the head. I went with the .020" washers under the PODS. I am actually burning fairly clean unless I slightly lug it, then it rolls coal big time, until the hx35w smacks the boost needle around. I think I'll hold back on more timing until its necessary.

But, before I crank the fuel screw in anymore I forgot about the high idle adjustment. It hasn't been altered from stock. If I am correct this will alter the control collars relationship toward full fuel (more fuel on the floor) if it is backed out correctly and the accelerator pedal is adjusted to accomidate the increase in necessary travel. This might prove to be a decent gain?

 

You have POD's, more timing is necessary.

Go ahead and back out the high idle screw. It will give you a little more RPM, but it will not change the full load fueling. The rate on the governor spring is fairly linear, so stretching it a little more does not equal a big gain.

 

Heres where I am now, everbody. Wanna

I backed the low idle screw out until I had no contact with the pump lever, went back till it just touched, and turned the power screw up 1/4 turn at a time until I saw 700 RPM (approximately 3/4 turn more). I then backed out the high idle screw all the way, removed the rod and felt for the internal stop. The pump arm hit the fuel line before I felt any resistance. I had to pull the lever off the pump and cut that bump off the lever and went back to the edge of the little bump/hole that locates the two parts of the lever together. I then reassembled the lever to the pump at the same index marks. Still couldn't find the internal stop, but decided I had made a big change and I didn't want hack up the lever any more. The throttle bellcrank forward stop had to be cut off and then the accelerator pedal came out for some torch alteration. I now have full pedal travel once again.

The "wild" test drive.

At dusk a friend of mine showed up and we took the truck out on a remote section of highway north of lincoln. Initially I noticed the truck was very agressive at the pedal as compared to before. The first run was an awsome second gear start at part "throttle" power would go from very strong to extremely agressive I couldn't get her to the floor before it was time to shift. Third was insane, it seemed the speedo could not show the actual speed fast enough. When I floored it the rpms soared well past the previous limit of 3200 RPM to a wild 3800 . After 3/8 to 1/2 mile 5th gear run starting at 1200rpm the pyro climbed fairly slow to 1200 F and I let off. We also did a traction loss test, it effortlessly smokes tire like a pro stocker in every gear I tried, I quit at 3rd as I have really nice tires. These "minor" changes added up to a huge increase in engine output.

That friend who was with me, was in shock. We did some work to his brothers 98 12v. It dynoed 346/822 on #2 on a new mustang dyno in lincoln. He thinks my first gen has the feel of more torque than that rig .

 

KEWL!

 

just think of what timing would do...

 

And a turbo .

 

I'm worried about the effects of torque loss due to advancing timing the initial nonscientific 2 degree bump felt good but how far can I go by tape measure and be safe. The Old 6.2 comparison to sound I've been hearing about? The 6.2 and cummins are two completely different animals.

Yeh, Ive been contemplating the turbo. But, definitely don't want more than 45 PSI right now and think a wastegate is a great idea. Affordability is a good thing too.

 

On my 93 DOdge I turned the fuel screw all the way in as far as it would go. and it never tried to run away. when I say as far as it would go I mean all the way. I took the tack weld off and cleand the threads up. It goes until it hits somethng in the pump and then thats it. I sure wish I could get more fuel out of this truck I can only hit 20PSI on a good day. This pump was rebuils 2 years ago.
DM01

 

45psi from a little turbo does not equal the amount of air of 45psi from a bigger turbo. 45psi from your lil 35-12 will do more harm to your engine than 45psi from a hx40 or s300 etc.

 

Uh, that wasn't what I said.

I'm wasting the 35-12 at 38 psi right now as I am sure it is out of its effeciency range, but more than any reason to prevent the compressor from exploding! For the record it did peak at 42 PSI on the first run after which I turned the boost elbow down a hair.

As for 45 psi from a HX40, bad idea..... BANG!

I think I like the S300G a lot better, but the price is a drawback. Cheaper than an engine I suppose.