Betting on the wiring and dirty contacts in the wiper controls on that one. There is a relay install mod for this in the sticky.

Lemme know when you find that squirrel cage in a DC motor

 

I have similar problem, but not the same. Engine will warm up just fine. Goes through 2 stages, first-engine warms up, second-temperature drops to firsts tick mark, then after a little time it warm ups again, and stays there for most part. (i do get some movement, but not much). I am assuming it's just thermostat opening. BUT, my heat in the cab just SUCKS. Going on 2 hour drive I will be freezing. It enough to keep my windows from fogging up but I am cold driving and full temp, blasting the heat. Air comes out but its barely warm. Is my heater core clogged, or are there some other possible sources? I don't really feel any breezes inside. AC worked well during summer though, just to throw it out there.

 

Very possible the core is plugged. With the truck running at operating temperature, open the hood and feel the hoses that go in to the heater core. they should both be hot. if one is cold there is a block in the flow and none of the hot coolant is going in to the core.

One other thing to check is the coolant control valve in the heater lines. make sure it is opening.

 

I have the same issue as the one that started this thread. For me it's always caused by a less than totally full radiator. This is hard for me to achieve because of my head gasket leak! It was -26 the other night and my heat kept coming and going until I topped it back off. I also run a Taurus fan on the low speed only.

 

That was my truck. Engine nice and warm, air out of vents lukewarm. It was the heater core plugged up. I wound up removing the hoses, and using a funnel, filling the core full of phospho acid for an hour. After flushing that, nice warm heat. The phospho acid is the metal prep stuff you get at Home Depot in the gallon jug that you use to clean metal prior to painting. I think it was like 15 bucks. It cleaned the gunk right out.

 

The fan blower in these trucks remind me of a squirrel cage, I always call them that I know they arent but they look like it just not a through shaft.

 

Gotcha, I was just teasing. The stator of an industrial 3 phase motor is called the squirrel cage, or a "Squirrel Cage motor". The electricity in an AC motor flows around the stator, not the rotor like the DC motors. Hence the Commutator and brushes to flow the electricity to the spinning rotor.

The most important thing to clean in a DC motor is the commutator (the smaller spot of the rotor) and make sure the brushes are ok. You should clean the spaces between the rotor slots though and the stator. That definitely helps.

 

ok so after some investagation the walve on the heater hose up close to the firewall does not have any vacume hooket to it. I found a vacume thingy cominout if the fire wall with three nipples on it the top one is hooked up but the bottom 2 are pluged with little wittled sticks! witch one goes to the heater hose valve?