I agree with the 'how do you guys do it', but not with the symptoms. My truck reacts just like it should. It warms up...about 1/2 way to work. About 5-6 miles. About 10 minutes and its good.

My dad drove an 89 for years when he bought it new up in Alaska. Never started it before he left the house...just got it and went. I never believed him that it wouldn't help to idle it for 15 minutes, as every car I'd owned would be toasty by then (gassers).

Now I know. It sucks for the first 10 minutes.

 

I plug in every night and have cardboard on the entire radiator, i start it and drive down the drive to the barn, it idles for maybe 10 min while i do the feeding and it's good to go,

but if i don't plug in or have the cardboard in and just start and go my gauge will just get off the cold mark in 12 miles of country road driving.

new core
resealed box
good coolant
tight cab

but i have not replaced the thermostat that could be my problem.

Dar

 

I will also say that adding some sort of winter-front, either a fancy store-bought one or a simple piece of card-board, even on our trucks that have really good heat, really shortens the time needed to build good heat.

A high-idle cable also makes a world of difference.


Also, after about three hours of block-heater, the top heater-hose where it connects to the engine will already be warm.

 

I'll offer another second on the stuck open Tstat. The temp should not fall off while driving, winter front or no. In 10 degree weather I'll have fan on low and heater temp set around 3/4 by the time I get to work, no winter front.

 

X2 on getting the stock fan out of there. Mine was stiff to turn even when cold so had to go anyhow. I stuck in an electric fan and found I need it on only when pulling heavy or running AC. I don't run any kind of rad cover for a variety of reasons, but my heater output is more than adequate.

 

I just purchased this truck last month. One thing I will say is that even in -30 degree weather, the heater kicks a@#. The heat works so well, that I have to turn the temp level back to midway just so I don't sweat while driving it.


Bad thermostat, or clogged heater core, or bad switch to the heater hose.

 

My thermostat was stuck open. It gave me the same symptoms. A 4 hour winter drive with the radiator 100% covered raised the temp inside the truck by 8 degrees.

I replaced the t-stat and flushed the heater core backwards. That did the trick. I can feel heat now.

I also installed seat heaters. Those things ROCK!

 

-40 here the last 2 days.
I just put a new heater core in on Jan 2nd or so.
I have cardboard in between the I/C and rad, block heater, oil pan heater, and a cable operated fast idle.
I go out, start the truck, and once the oil pressure's up, I roll the fast idle up to 1,000-1,100rpm and pour a coffee.
Within 15 minutes I'm outta there.
My cab gets warm but not hot.
Being the truck is a base unit there's a lot of steel in that club cab to try and warm up.

 

Hey Feets...........can a guy switch the heater hoses around and drive it like that just to reverse the flow of fluid to "move" things around inside???

 

That used to be a common request way back when we ran the full-service station.

People would have us reverse the hoses both in Spring and in Fall.

I don't see any reason why the same wouldn't work for us, except for the shortness of the actual hoses.

 

thanks for the advice I put a feed sack over the rad but is didnt help i plug it in and let it idle. I got to put a new altinator on this weekend (only charging 10 amps) so i will go ahead and replace thermostat.

 

Thats what I did, I pulled the lower left kick pannel off, and sealed it off. Made a huge difference, and my stuck will melt you out even before I sealed the vent off.

Mine has a pretty slow fan, Im thinkin of replaceing it with a new fan motor, and clean out the squirell cage.

Kasey

 

You may want to check the voltage at the fan before replacing it. There may be nothing wrong with the fan, just not enough power getting to it due to old wiring/connections. Search ''heater relay'' i think it is.

 

My stock fan is sitting in the garage and will be until spring. Winter front helps too. Still doesn't get hot until I drive it enough to get a load on the engine. Nature of the beast.

 

I concur. Winterfront helps some, but if your coolant is taking a nose dive, your thermostat is most likely not functioning correctly. Also, is your fan making an aggressive noise? Like the clutch isn't working and it's always pulling air?