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Horrible wind noise from drivers door

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Old 03-12-2016, 04:25 PM
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Horrible wind noise from drivers door

Are you guys getting lots of wind noise from the doors? My truck has been really bad about it for a long time. On one trip it got so bad that I stopped to tape up the door gap and climbed in through the passenger door. Sadly, it didn't help. At 70 mph and a bit of a head wind I measured 78 db in the cab. I have full stock exhaust.

Are door surround weather strips available? Mine is kinda flat but still rather pliable.

I may be taking a 3,000 mile road trip and that noise will be extremely annoying.
Old 03-12-2016, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by feets
Are you guys getting lots of wind noise from the doors? My truck has been really bad about it for a long time. On one trip it got so bad that I stopped to tape up the door gap and climbed in through the passenger door. Sadly, it didn't help. At 70 mph and a bit of a head wind I measured 78 db in the cab. I have full stock exhaust.

Are door surround weather strips available? Mine is kinda flat but still rather pliable.

I may be taking a 3,000 mile road trip and that noise will be extremely annoying.
Yes you can get new door weather strip, make sure you don't get the type that glues on. my pass door has a lot of wind noise, but is due to a poorly aligned door on my part. Was fighting me and I got lazy and said good enough. There is a gap between the seal and door about 18" long, on the door, but I put some foam on the door edge to take up the difference in gap. Does good enough.
Old 03-12-2016, 04:53 PM
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If I poke the seal at the top front corner of the door I can see daylight. We've tried to align the door but it hasn't improved.
Old 03-12-2016, 04:59 PM
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Couple things cause noise on my trucks:
1. door not aligned/ crappy aftermarket seal. I tend to stock up on passenger side seals at the JY and use them on the drivers b/c of the better condition. 87- later doors have thinner sheet metal too and bend easier making alignment difficult
2. vent window seal. I use silicone grease (not if painting though) and a dime behind the latch. its the only thing that works for me
3. 92-93, possibly 91 trucks had butyl plugs glued over the vents on the forward aspect of the door, just above each hinge. usually the glue wears out and the patch falls off. Can make your own from the door seal off a newer (2000 up) caravan or dynamat.
4. Can also rob the lower door seal coupling off a stratus/cirrus type car and feed it into the inside diameter of the stock door weather stripping. That eliminates the gap at the bottom of the door.

Do all that and you still have the firewall noise from the engine.......
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:19 PM
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My door seals are only about 5 years old....and I'm pretty sure they are almost done....thinking of replacing them soon.

I too use the dime behind the latch on the vent windows...seems to keep that window noise to a minimum.

Had not thought about the vents on the forward part of the door allowing wind noise to come into the door...I think I will make some covers for them and see if that changes things.
Old 03-12-2016, 09:30 PM
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I don't remember mine ever being very quiet they were built is the last of the the last of the truck it a truck era.
Old 03-13-2016, 01:04 PM
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Both my vent windows are RTV black siliconed shut. My very first 1st Gen I bought in 1991. Thought those wing windows were cool, but once I opened up that wing window, it never ever sealed tightly after that. So the second and third first genners, those windows got permanently sealed. Often wonder what the next owners thought when they tried to open them suckers up, LOL
Old 03-13-2016, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mknittle
I don't remember mine ever being very quiet, they were built as the last of the the last of the trucks in a truck era.
A brick being shoved down the Hwy at 70 Mph is going to displace a lot of air....
Old 03-13-2016, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Both my vent windows are RTV black siliconed shut. Often wonder what the next owners thought when they tried to open them suckers up, LOL
I am guessing they cursed your name, Augie.
Old 03-14-2016, 12:30 PM
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I used a db meter on my phone to get the numbers. I believe they were higher near the top front corner of the door.
I'll check it out again tonight or tomorrow and post the results.
Old 03-14-2016, 01:43 PM
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if you have a gap in the top roll down your window and put a piece of 4x4 between the jamb and the door then proceed to push on top of window frame until gap is gone but do this small increments
Old 03-14-2016, 03:13 PM
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That would make the gap worse.

One of my body men helped me do just the opposite. We tweaked the top of the door towards the cab. It helped a wee bit but if we go any closer the door skin will hit the door opening on the cab.

The primary goal was to make sure the door lined up properly with the body and make the latch fit without slamming. Then, we went after the wind noise.
Old 03-14-2016, 07:45 PM
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The best way is to use the dollar trick . You close the door with a dollar bill between the door frame and slide it around the frame to find out where it is lose or tight then adjust door , bend ,push ,or what ever, them shim the rubber to fit. It worked on my old 65 ford f250
Old 03-14-2016, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dieselbuilder
The best way is to use the dollar trick . You close the door with a dollar bill between the door frame and slide it around the frame to find out where it is lose or tight then adjust door , bend ,push ,or what ever, them shim the rubber to fit. It worked on my old 65 ford f250
You still have dollar bills up there in Nanoose Bay.... I find it hard to adjust the door with a loonie, or twoonie coin.....

Good advice no the less....I have heard of using a piece of regular paper as well.
Old 03-15-2016, 01:49 AM
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Yes you place the loonie on the rail road track and watch a hundred or so trains go by until its thin enough


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