Horrible wind noise from drivers door
#1
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Horrible wind noise from drivers door
Are you guys getting lots of wind noise from the doors? My truck has been really bad about it for a long time. On one trip it got so bad that I stopped to tape up the door gap and climbed in through the passenger door. Sadly, it didn't help. At 70 mph and a bit of a head wind I measured 78 db in the cab. I have full stock exhaust.
Are door surround weather strips available? Mine is kinda flat but still rather pliable.
I may be taking a 3,000 mile road trip and that noise will be extremely annoying.
Are door surround weather strips available? Mine is kinda flat but still rather pliable.
I may be taking a 3,000 mile road trip and that noise will be extremely annoying.
#2
Registered User
Are you guys getting lots of wind noise from the doors? My truck has been really bad about it for a long time. On one trip it got so bad that I stopped to tape up the door gap and climbed in through the passenger door. Sadly, it didn't help. At 70 mph and a bit of a head wind I measured 78 db in the cab. I have full stock exhaust.
Are door surround weather strips available? Mine is kinda flat but still rather pliable.
I may be taking a 3,000 mile road trip and that noise will be extremely annoying.
Are door surround weather strips available? Mine is kinda flat but still rather pliable.
I may be taking a 3,000 mile road trip and that noise will be extremely annoying.
#4
Registered User
Couple things cause noise on my trucks:
1. door not aligned/ crappy aftermarket seal. I tend to stock up on passenger side seals at the JY and use them on the drivers b/c of the better condition. 87- later doors have thinner sheet metal too and bend easier making alignment difficult
2. vent window seal. I use silicone grease (not if painting though) and a dime behind the latch. its the only thing that works for me
3. 92-93, possibly 91 trucks had butyl plugs glued over the vents on the forward aspect of the door, just above each hinge. usually the glue wears out and the patch falls off. Can make your own from the door seal off a newer (2000 up) caravan or dynamat.
4. Can also rob the lower door seal coupling off a stratus/cirrus type car and feed it into the inside diameter of the stock door weather stripping. That eliminates the gap at the bottom of the door.
Do all that and you still have the firewall noise from the engine.......
1. door not aligned/ crappy aftermarket seal. I tend to stock up on passenger side seals at the JY and use them on the drivers b/c of the better condition. 87- later doors have thinner sheet metal too and bend easier making alignment difficult
2. vent window seal. I use silicone grease (not if painting though) and a dime behind the latch. its the only thing that works for me
3. 92-93, possibly 91 trucks had butyl plugs glued over the vents on the forward aspect of the door, just above each hinge. usually the glue wears out and the patch falls off. Can make your own from the door seal off a newer (2000 up) caravan or dynamat.
4. Can also rob the lower door seal coupling off a stratus/cirrus type car and feed it into the inside diameter of the stock door weather stripping. That eliminates the gap at the bottom of the door.
Do all that and you still have the firewall noise from the engine.......
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thrashingcows (03-12-2016)
#5
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My door seals are only about 5 years old....and I'm pretty sure they are almost done....thinking of replacing them soon.
I too use the dime behind the latch on the vent windows...seems to keep that window noise to a minimum.
Had not thought about the vents on the forward part of the door allowing wind noise to come into the door...I think I will make some covers for them and see if that changes things.
I too use the dime behind the latch on the vent windows...seems to keep that window noise to a minimum.
Had not thought about the vents on the forward part of the door allowing wind noise to come into the door...I think I will make some covers for them and see if that changes things.
#6
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I don't remember mine ever being very quiet they were built is the last of the the last of the truck it a truck era.
#7
Both my vent windows are RTV black siliconed shut. My very first 1st Gen I bought in 1991. Thought those wing windows were cool, but once I opened up that wing window, it never ever sealed tightly after that. So the second and third first genners, those windows got permanently sealed. Often wonder what the next owners thought when they tried to open them suckers up, LOL
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#9
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#10
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I used a db meter on my phone to get the numbers. I believe they were higher near the top front corner of the door.
I'll check it out again tonight or tomorrow and post the results.
I'll check it out again tonight or tomorrow and post the results.
#11
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if you have a gap in the top roll down your window and put a piece of 4x4 between the jamb and the door then proceed to push on top of window frame until gap is gone but do this small increments
#12
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That would make the gap worse.
One of my body men helped me do just the opposite. We tweaked the top of the door towards the cab. It helped a wee bit but if we go any closer the door skin will hit the door opening on the cab.
The primary goal was to make sure the door lined up properly with the body and make the latch fit without slamming. Then, we went after the wind noise.
One of my body men helped me do just the opposite. We tweaked the top of the door towards the cab. It helped a wee bit but if we go any closer the door skin will hit the door opening on the cab.
The primary goal was to make sure the door lined up properly with the body and make the latch fit without slamming. Then, we went after the wind noise.
#13
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The best way is to use the dollar trick . You close the door with a dollar bill between the door frame and slide it around the frame to find out where it is lose or tight then adjust door , bend ,push ,or what ever, them shim the rubber to fit. It worked on my old 65 ford f250
#14
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The best way is to use the dollar trick . You close the door with a dollar bill between the door frame and slide it around the frame to find out where it is lose or tight then adjust door , bend ,push ,or what ever, them shim the rubber to fit. It worked on my old 65 ford f250
Good advice no the less....I have heard of using a piece of regular paper as well.