How big a job is it to install governor springs and how beneficial is it with the only other mods being the four adjustments on the pump and straight exhaust. What I am worried is if I am going to increase the rpm range and move out of the "power band" what is the benefit. I have a 1991 2wd reg.cab 5spd.

 

The benefit is extending the RPM range not moving it. It'll just keep pulling past 2500. Bottom end performance doesn't change.

And it doesn't take that much time to do it. Figure about 1-2 hours for the first time.

 

There's only one governor spring in a VE. It's not too big a job, you'll need about 3 hours, and you'll want a helper for about 10 minutes of that (unless you've evolved a third hand). There are good instructions in the "Tech Facts" section of this site.

The 3200 RPM spring makes a huge difference in how the truck feels. Throttle response is way better. You don't have to mash it to get the truck to move, just nudge it with your toe. The extra 600 RPM of fuel is nice, too, especially making the 2-3 shift with a load. Changing the governor spring does not add top end power at the expense of low end power, it's not like changing the cam in a gasser. You keep the low end (and it actually feels stronger due to the quicker response), but you also gain more top end. There really are no downsides.

 

Like Wanna said there is no down side to the install it will be the BEST $20 bucks you ever spent on the truck

 

What rpm springs are available and which one would you recommend? Where can I find some for $20?

 

The most common spring is a 3200, available from any pump shop. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
The above link has the part # and instructions for install.

 

3200 is the one you want and call peirs diesel ask for the VE pump spring its not listed .

http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeInjectors.htm

 

Any Bosch shop or distributor can get you the Bosch spring. Its actually a very easy job, just keep things absolutely clean on and around the pump and cylinder head area. I suggest some brake cleaner or ether for cleaning, then compressed air. If compressed air is not available, ether is better for cleaning as it drys faster than brake cleaner. You don't want any specs of dirt or paint to fall into the pump.

The springs that I know of that are stock length, no modifying required are the 3200- 366 spring, 2800- 386 spring and the 4200- 354 spring.

 

Buddy just put one in his truck and it made a HUGE difference. All he had was pump tweaks too, and it brought this thing to life. Went from 20-30psi of boost, and is a lot faster. I would reccomend it for sure.

Eric

 

i jsut put mine in a couple of days ago. it took me and my brother about 3 hours. started at 10 and we were done at 1 in the morning. By far the best 15 i have ever spent. well worth it, i also ground the AFC lever off too. The only bad thing about it is now i tend to drive faster. and for the mods i have done to my truck its time for me to get a bigger turbo. 50lbs out of a h1c with 60mm wheel is a little much. now i got the timing advanced to drop the boost but i still can get 40 lbs.

 

I have found an easier way to get the spring in and out. I don't know if there is anything wrong with it. When the pump top is loose, and the only thing holding it is the spring, I just push the throttle shaft through the top so they are separated. Then to go back together attach spring to shaft then push shaft back through hole in pump top.

The last one I did like this and it was a cinch!! Anything wrong with doing it this way?

Aaron

 

I worry about messing up the throttle shaft seal doing that.

 

Thankyou all for the info. I will try to get it done soon and respond on this thread and let you know how it went.