Originally Posted by keith1992

2/0 is good enough even on a 10-15ft run by the time I route it around and stuff?

Originally Posted by Jim Lane

Whoever was asking about the ring terminals for the stud terminals they are on page #3

http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Cat...minal&Lugs.pdf

On the issue of crimping on a terminal, there is a big difference in the connections between using a Hammer Style Crimper where you smack the punch with a sledge and the kind of crimper like I have.

On Page #3.
http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Catalog-Tools.pdf

The bench mount uses a diamond shape die and it compresses the lug from all 4 sides exerting thousands of pounds of force, the lug and the strands of cable almost become one.

I have cut a lug open with a saw and the strands are so compressed they cannot be separated.

While the simple Hammer Style Crimper merely punches the terminal in one place to collapse it onto the strand bundle.

Yes the pre filled lugs are nice and make a good connection and I have used them but I do not like them because the solder will wick up the strand bundle and make it not as flexible, however this is not a problem on a cable that is not going to move.

See their opinion on soldering lugs:
http://www.custombatterycables.com/faqs.htm

Looks like a good supplier or lugs, however I have never purchased anything from them.

http://bdbatteries.com/lugs.php

This is something like the kit I have only his is smaller and mine is bench mount.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvl1aWrkbI0

I think that Putting Vaseline on your cable before you insert it into the lug I think would cause resistance problems however smearing it on the outside of the lug and post will slow down the corrosion.
The reason a post corrodes is when the seal on the post is compromised allowing the acid to escape as the battery gasses.

Smearing Dielectric Grease or Bulb Grease on the wire first is a bad idea.

Dielectric Grease is Non Conductive and is an insulator and is used to prevent current from flowing, not help it.

I would rather use some NOALOX or Penetrox you could get from any electrical supply house.
You can get NOALOX at Home Depot in a small squeeze bottle.

http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm

I am not saying things are right or wrong but speaking from over 40 years of working experience in the electrical, electronics and mechanical field this is what I have found works best and yes I am still learning new thing.
Jim

Originally Posted by keith1992

I figured all crimps were about the same. Clearly not. And yes, I was talking about the smash down connectors and they are no good for for anything. The crimp kit you have sounds good, how much does it cost? Will your crimper work with 4/0 cable? Or do you have to buy a new die with each cable size you want to be able to do, or do you have to buy a whole new tool?

Originally Posted by Jim Lane

I am really not sure how much the kit cost; I worked for an RV storage and repair where I mainly worked on 45' Class-A Motorhomes, pushers usually 330-Cat powered.

We were at an NTP RV Convention and I told them I needed some equipment, I picked out what I wanted and they bought it from NOCO it was by the piece, I got an assortment of wrought copper lugs, battery terminals both Pos and Neg in Rights, Lefts, Straights, Flags in 4-gauge, 2-gauge, 1/0, 2/0, 4/0 sizes.

I also got Welding Cable in the same sizes, a Bench Mounted Crimper with rotating dies and a Bench Mounted Cable Cutter.

I know it was about $1800.00 and it weighted around 200 pounds.

My problem now is the box of lugs are somewhere in my garage but I do not remember where, but I am looking for them.

I have also made a set of jumper cables that are 30 feet long out of #2 welding cable and with these I can start anything.

You can make yourself a pair of cable crimpers by taking a pair of inexpensive Bolt Cutters from Home Depot and after scribing out various size square shapes on the jaws then cut out the crimping notches using a Die Grinder or an Angle Grinder.

Take your time with the sizes and it will work as good as a commercially purchased one for a fraction of the cost.

Jim