Mike Hummins

Well last year i replaced my clutch and decided since i was there id rebuild the transmission, then upon discovering the rebuild kits are not complete, a bearing and race refresh... After removing the input shaft my stepfather and I tried to remove the bearing on a press. He suggested pulling the gear and in turn that would pull the bearing also. Given hes an smart old man and air plane mechanic I ignored my thought that it seemed the input shaft and gear are one piece. Anyways 30 tons of pressure later and no luck we found out it was one piece. Didnt think much of it as he said it wouldnt damage it probably. Got everything put back together and the truck was shaking in neutral and a ringing when first entering 4th gear. This was a big kick in the teeth as summer had set in.
I finally got it out a few weeks ago and had ordered a new input shaft from rock auto a few months prior (bonus we got 2 input shafts for 1) which works out because my stepfather also has a first gen. Anyway i used a drill and socket to spin the output/input shafts from the yoke and didnt notice any wobble or run out. I was back at square one with no clue as to what was causing the shake and started thinking it might be the new flywheel or clutch. Then i decided id check the run out from the input shaft with a dial indicator. It had a .009 in. run out, I smacked it with a rubber hammer on the high spot and got it to settle at .006 in. My stepfather kept saying he thought I had over shimmed it given I did .008 preload with a possibility of being .001 or .002 over or under as the measurement slightly varies depending on where you measure or human error. So i thought that either one of us was right or maybe a little of both. Till I took off the output shaft cover and it was still showing a .006 run out even when holding down on the end of the input shaft. .006 dont seem like much but according to research ive done any shaft spinning above 3600 rpm cant have a run out of more than 0.00118 in.
So hopefully this is the fix ill post an update on it when its all back together. Also P.S.A Dont use the gaskets the come with the rebuild kit from rock auto/ allstategear ect (mostly the same kit company to company) theyre garbage. Ive put maybe 15 miles on the trans since rebuild and when taking apart i noticed that oil had been absorbed/seeping through the gasket between the layers of the gaskets. Also the input shaft seal is kinda crap (it already had 2 tears I know 100% not there at install) I found a way better seal from SKF 42X62X8 HMSA10 RG 9$ ( https://www.skfextranet.com/crsealsf...62X8+HMSA10+RG ) and theres an even better one made of better material Fluoro rubber (FKM) 42X62X8 HMSA10 V typically 36$. ( https://www.skfextranet.com/crsealsf...X62X8+HMSA10+V )
I went with the first as im not rolling in dough and figure its the same material as oem? nitrile rubber (nrb) and its a reputable company that you can actually look up the product. unlike what comes in the kit which closet i got was the company website no product or product info.

usmilret

I guess you learned alot.

Mike Hummins

Yeah definitely did but unfortunately sometimes the hard way. Definitely wont ever do that again

Mike Hummins

Put it on my stepfathers lathe last night 100% .006 run out. looks like i won the bet and all i won was not being able to use my truck for a year and payed for registration and insurance(full coverage) i ended up not using.

Mike Hummins

Well I got it all back together last weekend and its running smooth, still hear a kind of ringing noise when going into forth at first but goes away almost immediately. I guess im just going to hope it goes away unless it gets worse or I hear otherwise. Also learned a few new things along the way. First it seems best to use anaerobic gasket maker on the input shaft and output shaft housings/retainers. It makes for a tighter seal and wont mess with the preload measurement as much as rtv. Second is that the plastic clutch alignment tool isnt that great for a true alignment as it'll flex making for a fun install. I used my old input shaft to line everything up and my trans went in nice and smooth. It took less than 15 min from rolling it under the truck to having it seated flush to the bell housing. Last time i spent a day and had to enlist help to get it in.

Last sorry if any of this is already common knowledge.

edwinsmith

I've often wondered about those plastic input shaft tools. My last transmission R&R along with flywheel/clutch/pressure plate was done with one and the 2 mechanics doing the job with me watching used an extreme number of 4 letter words.

Mike Hummins

Ha thats how it went for me the first round. I noticed the flex in the plastic guide so after I got the cover plate loosely bolted on I switched to my old input shaft to align the clutch while tightening everything down. Also advise never forcing it in using the bolts or even bolting it up and wiggling it around and finger tightening them if its fighting being put in. The brand new pilot bushing i installed had some damage from doing this. It got gouged it in two spots. luckily i had a back up that came from the flywheel i bought.

CaptainChrysler

Yeah it can be fun times putting them back in. I made a little plate with a long fully threaded 3/8" bolt in it that goes in place of the slave cylinder. Bolt the bellhousing on first, then start putting the trans in. When / if it binds up at the pilot bushing you can screw the 3/8 bolt in and release the clutch, then it will slip right in. You could just have an assistant push the clutch down also, but I was usually fighting them alone.

Mike Hummins

Thanks for the info! I was thinking releasing the clutch might help with that but didnt know.

Fordzilla

That's the old fashioned way...It disengages the clutch lining from the flywheel surface, allowing the shaft to center itself......Ben