1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Gauges???

Old Feb 5, 2015 | 12:51 PM
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Question Gauges???

Hi Everyone,

I bought a 1992 w250 chassis and put engine, trans, and txfer case out of my 89 in the newer chassis. The chassis had a pyrometer, boost, and water temp gauge. where and how can i hook these sensors up on the engine as i would like to make them functional if they're going to be there? It seems like everyone that i talk to gives me a different answer on where to hook these things up at and what adapters i will need.

According to dieselmanor.com a boost bolt will not work in the manifold??? Any information is greatly appreciated!


Also what is everyone doing to get better mileage out of their first gen??


Happy Posting!
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Old Feb 5, 2015 | 02:38 PM
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As for the sensors...guess it depends on what is left of the system. And what make and model they are.

If they disconnected the probe for the Pyro then you will either want to drill and tap your exhaust manifold for a "Pre-turbo" reading, or drill a hole and weld on a bung to the exhaust pipe about an inch or so back from the V-band clamp...this will give you a "post turbo" reading.

If your missing the probe, and converter box (not sure if that's what it's called) then you will need to source those out as well.

Boost is simple enough. Just need the fitting to go in the manifold, and then some tubing to hook up the gauge to the manifold.

Water temp...might require it's own sensor.
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Old Feb 5, 2015 | 02:45 PM
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two out of the three are autometer's and if i remember correctly the one is an isspro!

I have the probe and the one "threaded fitting" for the pyrometer is that all that there is? also I think i'm going to go pre turbo, it should be more accurate that way.

I"m not sure which "converter box" you're talking about and for which gauge?

so the boos bolt fitting will work on our year trucks?? diesel manor said they didn't... no clue why??

the water temp is mechanical and it has it's own sensor. it's just a matter of where can i thread that thing into... i mean ideally i would like to just put it in spot where all i have to do is unthread a plug!
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Old Feb 5, 2015 | 09:09 PM
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The "signal converter box" is for the Pyro. It converts the signal from the probe to a signal that works for the gauge.

The 89 motor you have to remove a 10mm plug from the head on the drivers side near the air intake cover. Then plug in the fitting for the boost line. If you don't have it you should be able to order a new one the maker of the gauge.

Water temp sensor...guess it depends on the thread on teh sensor if you could spin it in somewhere.

Take a look through the threads at the top of the Forum. Look the "Sticky"....there is a TON of info in there, and you should be able to find answers to most of your questions.

If you could post up pics of the probe, sensor, boost tube end and gauges that would help us figure out what you need, and what might work where.
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
The "signal converter box" is for the Pyro. It converts the signal from the probe to a signal that works for the gauge.

The 89 motor you have to remove a 10mm plug from the head on the drivers side near the air intake cover. Then plug in the fitting for the boost line. If you don't have it you should be able to order a new one the maker of the gauge.

Water temp sensor...guess it depends on the thread on teh sensor if you could spin it in somewhere.

Take a look through the threads at the top of the Forum. Look the "Sticky"....there is a TON of info in there, and you should be able to find answers to most of your questions.

If you could post up pics of the probe, sensor, boost tube end and gauges that would help us figure out what you need, and what might work where.
Pyrometer probe connection and cabling can be tricky. Every connection made, and every conductor used changes the reading. It isn't intuitive to most people. The pyrometer always comes with all the parts to put it, including cabling for that reason. Usually the cabling is made of the same metals used in the thermocouple to limit the effects of the connections.
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by j_martin
Pyrometer probe connection and cabling can be tricky. Every connection made, and every conductor used changes the reading. It isn't intuitive to most people. The pyrometer always comes with all the parts to put it, including cabling for that reason. Usually the cabling is made of the same metals used in the thermocouple to limit the effects of the connections.
That is why I ordered a new pyro probe and wire from Summit, when I installed a used Autometer gauge.
The old wire to the probe, was cut which would have changed the temp reading.
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