Gas Tank Removal
Gas Tank Removal
Before I start, is there anything special or that is going to bite me me in the backside when I start removing the fuel tank on my '91 D250. Looks pretty straight forward to me.... any input would be appreciated... Thanks
Gas tank straps are not available from dodge or in the aftermarket that I could find. If they are at all rusty you may want to have some flat stock steel on hand to make your own incase they break.
Rockfoot,
Try to run your fuel level down as much as possible. I changed my sending unit with over a half tank.
Kinda hard when it's sloshing around. Timing was bad and I just HAD to do it on THAT particular day.
There's two straps holding it to the frame. Be careful of the wires and hoses coming from the sending unit. I couldn't get my hands in there to disconnect everything prior to dropping the tank. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward.
Aloha,
Matt
Try to run your fuel level down as much as possible. I changed my sending unit with over a half tank.
Kinda hard when it's sloshing around. Timing was bad and I just HAD to do it on THAT particular day.
There's two straps holding it to the frame. Be careful of the wires and hoses coming from the sending unit. I couldn't get my hands in there to disconnect everything prior to dropping the tank. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. Aloha,
Matt
I just did this a couple of weeks ago. I had the drove shaft out first so that made a bit of room for me.
I ended up cutting an inch and a half off the bolts so that I could get a deep socket and my impact on it (done with a grinder and a cutting wheel and a fire extinguisher on hand). Make sure you spray it good with penetrating oil, and if you can get at use a wire brush to clean the threads first.
The bolts on the driveshaft side are the only ones you have to worry about as the straps lock home on the other side with a simple T mechanism.
I also had a 2x4 (2x6 would be better) the length of which was the same as the distance between the straps. This wood was used to support the tank as I used a jack to lower it.
As I recall, I was able to reach the wires for the sender with the tank in place but be ready for anything as you lower and do it slowly.
The tank is tall (16" IIRC)so if you have a 2by you may have to lift it a bit to get it out.
Hope that helps
Eric
I ended up cutting an inch and a half off the bolts so that I could get a deep socket and my impact on it (done with a grinder and a cutting wheel and a fire extinguisher on hand). Make sure you spray it good with penetrating oil, and if you can get at use a wire brush to clean the threads first.
The bolts on the driveshaft side are the only ones you have to worry about as the straps lock home on the other side with a simple T mechanism.
I also had a 2x4 (2x6 would be better) the length of which was the same as the distance between the straps. This wood was used to support the tank as I used a jack to lower it.
As I recall, I was able to reach the wires for the sender with the tank in place but be ready for anything as you lower and do it slowly.
The tank is tall (16" IIRC)so if you have a 2by you may have to lift it a bit to get it out.
Hope that helps
Eric
Thanks, guys, for the info. This is one terrific website!! I am an engineer on a ship that has 5 Rolls Royce 9 cyl. diesels. I wish I could get this kinda help and response when I am at sea and those critters start acting up!!! Thanks again...R.B.
I see more "ratchet-strap" tank-hangers under Dodge trucks, than all other types combined.
The tank straps must be a failure-prone point.
I have a 91 model D-350 that the rear-most strap has failed, at the time of this writing, and is hanging by the front strap only.
The tank straps must be a failure-prone point.
I have a 91 model D-350 that the rear-most strap has failed, at the time of this writing, and is hanging by the front strap only.
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About droppin the tank, if you can, try to have it below a 1/4 tank and clean that big "white plastic donut filter" in the tank before reinstalling. As heavy duty as these trucks seem, the sending unit assembly is held on by a twist on black plastic ring, that is probably loose if its like most. Also check the vent tube to ensure its clear with air while you have the assembly out and install a small length of hose hanging down if none is present. While its down, some here have installed a bigger set of lines to the lift pump and also replaced the "dreaded" return line for more supply under demand. A floor jack, and an extra set of hands to reach over the top of the tank and disconnect hoses and wires while its coming down and to help balance is nice.
Ive never seen a ratchet strap holding up a tank, not that someone out there, might also use bailing twine cause they can. Thats some crazy stuff there. I know there strong and all, but there for temporary holddown, not hold up. Glad you noticed your missing one. Hope you get it fixed soon. Sounds as bad as unsecured cargo.
Ive never seen a ratchet strap holding up a tank, not that someone out there, might also use bailing twine cause they can. Thats some crazy stuff there. I know there strong and all, but there for temporary holddown, not hold up. Glad you noticed your missing one. Hope you get it fixed soon. Sounds as bad as unsecured cargo.
I have been at it for many years and can almost 100% predict what I will see, before I get the vehicle on a hoist.
I have seen tanks held up by everything imaginable.
Don't anyone have a panic attack about my truck with the broken tank strap.
I have plenty of others to drive and more sense than to drive that particular truck before I get it fixed.
I was just pointing out the fact that I see way more Dodge trucks with tank strap issues, than all other brands of trucks.
In my own feeble mind, I believe a good heavy quality nylon strap should outlast a thin rust-prone metal band. In fact, it might not be a bad idea to install "safety straps" under one's tank, in order to "catch" the tank, should an aged metal band fail out on the highway.
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