#2isgreen

I'm seeing two price ranges - cheap ($50) and expensive ($200).
The el-cheapo models all say cannot be mounted in vehicle, is that serious? Or just a manufacturer being overly cautious. The expensive ones all have electronic senders.

Do both need snubbes/ball valves to work?

I want to match the rest of my autometer Z series gauges.


Lastly - Not sure if I should get the 0-15 psi or 0-30 psi - as I never really plan to exceed 15

simplysmn

I would get electric gauge because if for some reason a Line break's you don't want fuel inside the cab with you or worse all over you .

Rick 12v CTD

I run mechanical gauges. Just be careful with them, don't kink the line (if you do, buy new line) and loom it.

I'm not that worried about diesel in the cab to be honest. It doesn't combust as easy or like gas either so... but that's just me.

bobva

I use this http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-CGI2240.asp with my FPG

93-12Smoke

The manual gauges can be used with an isolator to keep fuel out if the cab. I run ab issapro electric gauge. Really like it.

93-12Smoke

The snubber keeps the needle from bouncing. Your lift pump doesn't maintain steady pressure since it pumps up and down on the cam

#2isgreen

How about this idea then -

Run the mechanical unit in cab, but also have my ball valve/ snubber in cab so if there's a leak at the gauge I can shut it down without leaving the drivers seat.

93-12Smoke

The concern is more if your in an accident. You don't want to get sprayed with fuel. Yeah diesel isn't as combustable as gas but i don't like the idea of being sprayed with any type of fuel especially if you're trapped in the truck.

Rick 12v CTD

My thought on that is if the line did rupture it's going to be either under the hood, at the firewall or some other tighter pinch point under the dash, it shouldn't get you directly. If my truck was a smaller vehicle, I wouldn't run it but it's a big truck with a lift. It's the other vehicles that will see the damage, not me. Unless I hit a semi which in my neck of the woods will likely be a head on collision at hwy speeds and I'm basically dead anyway lol

Plus the line that comes with the gauges is really tiny. It won't leak much fuel in an accident that could cause it to rupture the line. The motor would probably be fubared enough that if you didn't shut it down right away it would shut down on its own pretty quick. The lines won't leak unless the motor is running.

An isolator is a good idea though.

All that said, don't justify something you're not comfortable with.

Also, don't run a snubber, use a needle valve they work better.

Sent from Tapatalk 4 via a Galaxy S3

93-12Smoke

I completely agree with what youre saying but I run a 100gph electric pump. That whont shut down unless power gets cut. I was just giving him the reason why they say don't use them in the cab.

#2isgreen

What type of line does the fuel run in? 1/8" copper? With my piston pump I'm leaning towards the mechanical in cab option.

1STGENFARMBOY

I also run a mechanical gauge inside the cab, and rubber fuel line, I change the line every 2 years just for piece of mind.

KRB

I use a Westach and like it. The max pressure I see is 9lbs.

#2isgreen

What are folks running for tubing? I'm thinking my furnace heating oil runs in copper so that must be acceptable. Would 1/8" or 1/4" copper be best?

olddodgetrucks

run hyd hose cheap will never burst or rub through