patdaly

Nope, the vibrations will likely crack it in short order.

As someone else said, I would run small hydraulic or Aeroquip type, say -4.

robert78.5

I used an electric gauge setup $100.00, needle on gauge fell off about two months later. What is a good gauge brand?

#2isgreen

Just looked that up - cool looking stuff. Do I need special tools to get the fittings on there? I figure I'll just cool up the excess vs. cutting it. Can I adapt it to NPT fittings as that's what's on the gauge and the banjo at the IP

taterfarm

I dont like any copper tubing either, it transmits sound into the cab and is too sensitive to bends and crushing. I like appropriate plastic lines, like our plastic tank and plastic fuel lines. My boost gauge is the small flexible spaghetti air lines that big trucks use for all the air accessories, its tough stuff, seems like it will stretch a mile before it breaks. My fuel line is a little bigger, think its 1/4 OD x .044 wall. I'm using a needle valve under the hood up to my cheapo water pressure gauge in the cab, works fine for me.



did you use a snubber or needle valve so the gauge wasn't bouncing all the time?

Rick 12v CTD

I just run the plastic line that comes with the mechanical gauge

It gets run through a hole in the fire wall with the boost line and drive pressure line. The hole has a grommet, and everything is loomed and has electrical tape wrapped around it. Shouldn't ever wear through.

1992gen1_fan

Heres my setup. Autometer sport comp mechanical 15 psi. Heavy duty steel wire inforced hose and fittings bought at the local big rig parts shop. I use the needle valve to "snub" and to shut the fuel off to the gauge incase of a leak ect.

JimmieD

So, 1992Gen1 Fan, what are you, a freakin' rocket scientist in your spare time? Man, that setup is downright gorgeous, more than impressed here!

I'm intrigued by that bolt/fitting that is connected to banjo fitting. Maybe I just don't get out enough but I've never seen the like before. Any chance of a part number or suggested source?

And the fitting for needle valve, what's that or what's it normally used for or a source? Never seen one exactly like it either.

Even the 90* that runs to hose, really cool! Do you have to have a shop fit the hose to the 90* or is it a DIY sort of thing?

Sorta strange I don't recognize any of that when I worked for years in mfg. and industrial equip. repair and install. Any further info appreciated - but if not I understand 'cause it's a lot of questions. Thanks! One fine install there.

#2isgreen

Ok new question based on that last photo - is that the best (or only) place to tap in? That location is post filter- helpful to watch plugged filter conditions, but is it close enough to the IP to reflect the pressure entering the pump ?

oliver foster

That is where I tap into for my fuel pressure tests.
I just bought several tapped banjo bolts from Genos and a fuel pressure gauge/tester with 4 ft of hose.
The banjo bolts have Schrader valves tapped into them.
This way I can run a fuel pressure test on any one of my diesels trucks without installing a gauge in each rig permanently .
The hose is long enough to snake under the fender and into my triangular vent window for a little on the road testing if needed.

1992gen1_fan

Thanks . The banjo bolt is a tapped banjo bolt from geno's, the needle valve is from DAP (if I remember correct), and the fuel line and fittings are from a local big rig shop. The fittings are kind of a barb fitting with a threaded retainer. They work well .

1992gen1_fan

If you try to tap it any closer you'll have to mess up the hard line to the pump. I really doubt there would be enough pressure difference in that short span to tell a difference.

JimmieD

Thanks for the info, and PM!
JimmieD

#2isgreen

I called a hot rod shop up the road and got a stern lecture about running a mechanical gauge in the cab, "well sir, its a diesel" "OOhhhh ok then never mind!!

one thing he did mention is that many tracks will not let you race with a mechanical unit in the cab.

The guy is selling me everything i need in AN-4 now i just need to plumb it up.

something always comes up tho right? my gas pedal fell off going down the highway this am. that takes priority!

BILTIT

You can use a fuel pressure isolator when running a mechanical in cab. Then if it leaks inside it will be glycol and not diesel.

dieselluvr

I use a glycerine filled 0-15psi mechanical gauge I bought on Ebay for like $12 in the cab that's plumbed with 1/8" polyethylene tubing. Never had a problem with leaks. Guess I'm a non-conformist... with an extra $200 in my pocket.