Hi, is a fuel pressue gauge just as necessary for VP and lift pump on the 1st generation as it is on the 98-02 generation?

 

Yes! I burned up a brand new pump cause I misunderstood how much fuel pressure was needed. I was running a 7psi napa electric pump till just before her demise !!! I read somewhere you need a min. of 5psi at idle. So I had approx. 7psi at idle. What could be wrong with that? Oh, and had the pump turned up w/ POD's. I bet that pump cavitated as much as it pump fuel. I wondered for the longest time why I felt it drop off on the top end I get sooo tickled and aggrivated w/ myself over that one Oh well, ya live ya learn!

 

On a stock truck, a fuel pressure gauge is not really necessary. The VE will pull its own fuel through a dead lift pump with no harm done as long as there's only 200 hp of fuel involved. I think any truck with big injectors needs a fuel pressure gauge, though.

 

I'm sure your correct. I'm just overly paranoid since I'm on my 3rd. pump in 1.5 yrs. The first one, one that came on the truck died before I turned it up. Lift pump went bad and I didn't know it. I reckon there were some other factors involved like the switch to ULSD. I installed an oil pressure guage for less than $20 for a fuel pressure guage and have been satisfied. It at least letting me know my Holley blue is on its way out. With the sinsetivity of the VE I think a Fuel Pressure guage should have been installed from the factory .

 

Ya, this truck is bone stock.....I just thought a gauge could help find a problem before the problem got REALLY expensive. What is the bennefits of having that gauge?

 

It will tell ya if your lift pump is bad before you burn up the IP. But as Wanna said, "On a stock truck a fuel pressure gauge is not really necessary" If ya want one and don't want to spend much, an oil pressure gauge works quite well. <$20 at Auto Zone

 

A fuel-pressure gauge between the fuel-filter and injection-pump is a very handy diagnostic tool; I watch my fuel-pressure closer than any other of the many gauges I have.

Once you learn what pressure is "normal" for your set-up, you can usually catch most fuel-feed issues before they shut things down.

Even better is to have two gauges, one ahead and one after the filter; with two, if the post-filter gauge starts losing pressure and the pre-filter gauge shows fine, then you know for certain that the problem lies within the filter.


Many is the fuel-filter that has been replaced when it was not at fault, simply because it is the first suspect in the chain of crime.

 

ok so how do you and where do you tap in to the line genos has a bango bolt but i dont know if itll fit, cause im lookin at one too

 

I am running 3/8" rubber fuel lines so I just purchased a T with the proper threads on the Up part of the T. I hope that makes sense.

 

This is the one that FITS the 1st Gen. engine, regargless of what it says :

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....BF-LONG-TAPPED


It is the one you will use if you are not replacing the rigid metal lines with a "Big Line Kit".

Some of my trucks use the tapped banjo-bolt, others have 3/8 rubber lines and use some manner of TEE-fitting for the fuel-pressure sender.


Either way, install a pressure "snubber" from McMaster-CARR to smooth out the surges, so that the gauge-needle stays steady and doesn't constantly flinch.