hello, fellow 1st genners!

Since it is spring break and I am not somewhere warm where all the babes are like I wish, I have been messing around with my pickup instead. Anyway, I decided to turn up the IP. I had done different adjustments in the past, but this time, I decided to max it out. I turned the fuel screw in about two turns and turned the AFC pin to the deep end. I took it for a spin, and it did not have the low end power that i had hoped for, so I turned the low boost screw down about two turns, and it helped considerably. Then, I turned the star wheel counterclockwise about 1/2 turn to get rid of some of the smoke. The smoke level is about right, but I don't really like the decrease in power. however, I have heard from diesel shops, as well as people here, that lowing the starwheel can have a very negative effect on fuel mileage, so I want to approach this adjustment carefully, although it is easy to adjust. By the sound of it, a timing bump might be another easy mod, so i might give it a try.

Anyway, I am wondering if anyone else has found a combination of mods that worked well for them. I want more power, but not at the expense of fuel mileage or excessive EGTs, since I will be towing occasionally.

On a side note, I do know where I can get a propane kit. By the sound of it, this is not necessarily the safest mod, but do y'all think that it might be worth a try if approached with caution?

I think that a better air filter might help, and I might install the 3200 gov spring sometime, but not now. Gee, a guy just can't stop messing with these things, can he? Its like a disease!

 

Mine works best with the starwheel out 2.5 turns from the bottom, full power screw up to max and then out 2 turns, low boost(smoke screw) in level with locknut, nylon washer shaved to 1/2 original thickness, fuel pin at max setting, and 3200 RPM throttle spring. Timing is bumped until my index finger just will not fit between AFC cover and intake lying flat. AFC pushed up to the intake was too much timing. I don't use a ground fuel pin due to when pulling my trailer it was too much and lowered fuel mileage a lot. I also run a HTT Stage III compressor upgrade with a 16 hot side turbo housing which cured my turbo bark when pulling. I have seen as high as 22 MPG on the highway and 15 MPG towing but normally I see 20 MPG highway empty which is about 2 MPG more than before the mods. I have more power towing and empty than I can use with these settings.

 

Did you add more timing? Sounds like you may have too much timing for the fuel.

 

I bottomed out the star wheel. I let my right foot be my AFC

 

My full load screw is in as far as it will go with the jamb nut taken off and the threads chased. My star wheel is cranked down until it stopped, timing bumped 1/8", smoke screw in about 2-3 turns and, of course, stock AFC cone set deepest. I know most guys don't run the star wheel until it stops but I haven't had any problems with it. I still get good mileage although my odo. is screwed up so it's unsubstantiated. It doesn't make any noticeable smoke at idle when warm. I think the low speed fuel is the key to making the 21cm. housing spool. I don't seem to have the turbo lag that everybody complains of. It is not bad at all. And yes I have driven other trucks (two p-pump trucks with mods.) so I'm not saying this because I don't know better. I might be able to help my mileage a little more by backing off on things but I'll wait until I get my injectors to fine tune things.

 

It sounds like the star wheel is a popular adjustment I think that many diesel shops often turn up the power that way. One of these days, I may get to adjusting the timing, and go from there. Thanks, everyone!

 

Im running about the same as J 5.9.
I have my fuel screw in 2 turns, star wheel bottomed, timing adjusted, 2 turns on the full load fuel delivery pin, I had the pin set deep untill the other night when I ground it down to the old smokey pin. Before the pin grind, with those settings I could easilly achieve 22 highway, and 18 mixed, some heavy foot, some light foot, some highway, some city.
I havent had a chance to check mileage as of yet with the pin grind. Before the pin grind I was seeing NO more then 1000* WOT in 5th all the way to 85, empty, now I can grab 1125* BUT I also did my own "poor boys open element intake" the night of the fuel pin soooooo...........

 

I advanced the timing 1/8" today. I suppose that, like everyone here says, it will be easier the next time! I took it for a drive and it ran cooler and had slightly more go. It made much more smoke until I backed off the low boost screw. I will have to try it for a while to see how I like it.

One question, isn't it crucial to pay attention to the EGT level when advancing timing, since it will now display a slightly more innaccurate reading?

Anyway, thanks for the advice!

 

I run about 1/8 advanced, full fuel screw in apox 2.5 turns, high idle screw backed off, afc pin turned deep, starwheel backed down (unknown), nylon washer shaved by 1/2 and make sure that I had full throttle travel.

Getting about 16.5 to 17 mpg w/4:10's and 35's with manual foot control

 

It's not that a timing advance will display a more inaccurate egt reading, it is what it is. However, timing advance takes the heat that would normally be spit out the exhaust and leaves it in the head. So your egt drops in exchange for a rise in cylinder head temp. This is why the efficiency goes up because the engine has more time to use the full you're trying to ram into it. Less exhaust heat means less boost and thus the afc won't inject as much fuel at any given throttle position. So basically you get more power with less fuel. For me, I definitely wouldn't go really far with the timing though because I work the truck. I would only be concerned about the rising head temps if you tow or haul heavy. I went an 1/8" on mine and won't go any further. I hope this helps.

 

Good post

 

Thanks for the description, Johnny!

 

I'm wondering if there's any way to know what starting point I'm at with the timing. Ive heard that the pumps are set individually to the engine they are installed on. It looks like my pump is a recall pump (not painted) and the lock bolt appears to be about centered in the adjustment slot. What should I make of this? Stock timing? Any issues there to start with, or just bump it an eighth and see what happens?