I have NO interior lighting that is working. The door switch on the driver side does work, I confirmed that by leaving the headlights on and opening the door. And the buzzer goes off.
No dome light, or map light, the bulbs are good, the fuses are good but replaced with new anyway just for good measure. I replaced the headlight switch with a NEW one today still nothing, not even in manual mode with the switch itself.
ALL exterior lighting works with the exception of the underhood light (dont know why on that one either.

Second, the radio does nothing at all either.

Third, I have no WTS light, the bulb is good, and the info center works.

Forth, power mirrors dont work either.

Fifth, no outside rear cab light, the switch on the dash doesnt even light up.

OD does work, and lights up when turned off.

I think thats it, it doesnt look like anyone has been hacking the electical system, anything that was done, like the bag phone, and brake controller was professional.

Oh, this is a Green 93 D250 Reg cab auto LE.

 

Jim Lane might be the man to answer this one.

 

I think it's because it's green.












How do the fusible links look?

 

Hehe I had to put that in there, I am so used to talking to the retards at Advance Autoparts I just tell I have a Green 93 Dodge when I call anymore.

The fusable links look good. But I have never delt with them before. So I dont really know what to look for.

lol I second the Jim Lane factor on this one too. JIM!!!

no offence guys!

 

Oh yeah, and the glove box light!

Man I need an FSM

 

For reasons known only to Chrysler, at least on the ones I have messed with, all the interior lights that come on when the door opens are all-the-time HOT and the door-switches complete the GROUND circuit.

Take the bulb out of the dome-light, stick a GROUNDED test-light probe into the bulb socket, touching first one contact, then the other; the test-light should light when the HOT contact is probed, regardless of door open or closed.

If no light, then put the test-light alligator to a known HOT, open a door, and touch the probe to the GROUND contact; the test light should light; close the door and it should go OFF, open the door and ON again.


Another place to check is that big square business on the firewall where all the electric enters through the firewall; it seems like there is a STICKY on cleaning/repairing all those millions of contacts in that plug.

 

Thanks BearKiller. I am going to go out and mess with it some more today. I think I bought a Haynes manual when I bought the truck, but I havent been to the shop in a couple days, looks like I am going to have to go over there and find it, hopefully that'll have some wiring schematics in it.

I am usually very good with wiring but this sux!

 

Pull the fuse block down and look for any loose connections on the back. Had a similar problem on my 68 dart. A whole slew of things started not working. Fuses were all good, but on the back of the fuse block a wire from the main supply wire to one of the fuses had come loose. Drove me nuts for about 2 weeks. Good luck!

Aaron

 

Good news! I just saved a Bunch of...... Oh wait.... never mind

I got it fixed, in that mess of FL's on the driver fender the accessory supply wire that comes out of a 4 wire distribution deal, one goes to a connector about 4 inches from it, this feeds the interior lighting fuse port on the fuse block in the cab, the wire on the firewall side of that connector had corroded and fell out, so long story short, I spliced it back together with some heavy duty connectors, and vwalla! interior lighting, and the cargo light works now!

Plus found that was wrong with the WTS light, for some reason the wire in the same vacinity was pulled apart as was the whole loom on the driver fender well, im thinkin rodents..... so fixed that too.
And for some reason or another the Radio decided to start working today. Still a little mysterious about that one though. I checked the fuse port and had 12 volts, wheras the interior lighting fuse port did not untill I fixed the problem.

So any way, thanks once again Dave, I probably wouldnt have went looking in the fusable links first thing this morning if ya didnt mention it last night.

 

Our dome and courtesy lights use a 1004 lamp that has 2 contacts on the bottom much like an 1157, the filament is connected through both of them and the shell is isolated.

Installing a single contact lamp like an 1156 or similar will cause a dead short in the circuit much like a dime in the lighter.

I was able to get a super cheap price on my 82 GM 6.2 because the owner had installed the wrong lamp in the courtesy lights and took out the same circuit that powered the glow plug controller.

After I drove it away I stopped and removed the lamp and replaced the fuse and I had myself my first diesel.
Jim

 

Jim is right and I need to edit my previous statement to ignore the part about GROUND housing portion of the bulb, and instead test to the ground contact.


It has been several weeks since I have had a Dodge dome-light bulb out and I tend to forget that they aren't good old 1156s.