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Electrical Gremlins

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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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Electrical Gremlins

For those of you that know, I am restoring a 91 truck. I had to change the cab for the rust factor. All has gone good so far . . until tonite. I used the same wiring harness and dash. Currently, truck will start up, and I have power to all fuses in the fuse box. BUT, I have no windshield wipers, cargo light, heater blower or radio. So, there is power to the fuses for the things that arent working. . . they just dont work.

The gauges seem to be working, at least the way they were before with a fluctuation of amp gauge and oil pressure gauge. It would appear that there is a ground missing somewhere, but I have no idea as to where.

I took my time as I went through the truck putting it together, making sure that any ground wire I came across, I made bare metal contact and secured it the best I could, knowing that these are critical for things to work properly.

Is there a cab ground or some other ground that is so obvious that I am missing, or has anyone else ever run into something like this before?
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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I think there is normally a body ground off the battery. If you haven't already, double check the connections for bent or broken pins, corrosion etc. Is it possible you pinched the wiring harness or crushed a section during the cab swap?
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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Or you just have normal Dodge wiring. Sorry but Dodge has the worst wiring of any truck and It hasn't gotten any better. I plan on taking every wire out of my truck and getting a Painless Wiring harness for a 73-87 Chevy and getting rid of all the computer junk. I will run Auto meter gages in a dash panel that I have already made to fit in the factory spot And Painless gives you a fuse box on the fire wall. I did the same thing on a Jeep that had a fuel injected engine and we put a 4BT in it so we used an early model harness and got rid of all the computer junk and extra wires instead of just cutting them off and having a rats nest under the dash.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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What do you lose when you get rid of the computer? I assume the cruise is run through the computer, but mine never works anyway. What else? I guess you would put the grid heaters on a manual switch too. You wouldn't have to lose the RWAL is you just powered it from the new fuse box, although mine needs a new computer or dump valve, haven't figured out which yet.

Just thinking out loud I guess. I too look forward to the day when I don't have any Dodge wiring mess either.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by woodrat
What do you lose when you get rid of the computer? I assume the cruise is run through the computer, but mine never works anyway. What else? I guess you would put the grid heaters on a manual switch too. You wouldn't have to lose the RWAL is you just powered it from the new fuse box, although mine needs a new computer or dump valve, haven't figured out which yet.

Just thinking out loud I guess. I too look forward to the day when I don't have any Dodge wiring mess either.
I did away with the RWAL dump valve. Nothing is hooked up back there anymore.
I havent tried the unhooking the Computer yet.

One thing I did notice while messing around with it today, when I turn the key on...the temp gauge pegs. . .and if I turn on the parking lights, then turning on the key . . .I lose the parking lights.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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My truck also has a bunch Electrical Gremlins! after working on the wiring in this vehicle - I'm shocked more of them don't just burn to the ground..... Anyways I solved several issues by adding a ground wire from the battery to the core support - the factory wire on my truck was missing.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:29 AM
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Well, I think I found something. I put some jumpers on the heater blower to make sure it worked. It did work. So, I rip the dash apart and with a test light, find that sometimes it works and sometimes doesnt.

Now, I put a test light to the power wire that goes to the heater contol switch, and found that there is a spot in the steering wheel when I turn it ever so slowly, that cuts the power to the heater blower and also makes some of the gauges act erractic. So, I think I may have found the problem.

One of Dodges better ideas, so you cant pull the ignition switch out, or pull the turn signal harness out. . . they put a 20 Torx bit screw that has a pin in the center of the screw. I dont have anything like that for a tool. I tried drilling out the center of the bit, but with no luck. They must be hardened steel and with such a tiny bit.. . . SO....

Does anyone make a torx bit with the center of the bit having a hole in it? Never saw one before but I NEED ONE....

Anyway, at least I know where the problem is, now I just have to get the right tools to rip it apart to find out what is grounding it out when the wheel is turned. Could the ignition switch cause someting like this?
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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From: over yonder back there
Originally Posted by GIT-R-DONE

Does anyone make a torx bit with the center of the bit having a hole in it? Never saw one before but I NEED ONE....
yes, they are called security bits, or tamper-proof bits, and they are readily available from sears, harbor freight, TSC. I got mine at TSC for like $7
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 01:19 PM
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I got that socket at NAPA
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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Or you can take a small punch and bust off that security "nub" out of the center of the fastener. I've done that before with good luck on other things....

And sometimes you can also force a straight blade screw driver down beside the nub to break it off or to jambed into it so you can remove the fastener.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 05:05 PM
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as for your problem, do you think its a ground issue and your ground circuit is going through the steering column (aka bad or missing ground)? or do you think a postive wire is getting shorted out to your steering column and probably just heating up one of the fuseable links (instead of blowing it like a normal fuse would)?
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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The RWAL may work as a stand alone. If you take out the computer your gages may not work (junk anyway) your alternator Will not charge and all the other junk like the sensor telling the computer that it is cold out side and to turn on the heater grid, I have heard that the A/C is controlled threw it. I just like things simple and reliable. all the other stuff is for people who need the truck to do the thinking for them. I don't have a prob with technology I just want it to work if its there.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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From: Skamokawa, Washington
I had to unplug the AC compressor last fall when I realized it was engaged all the time. I don't use it that much, so for now I will probably leave it that way...
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 4RnrRick
as for your problem, do you think its a ground issue and your ground circuit is going through the steering column (aka bad or missing ground)? or do you think a postive wire is getting shorted out to your steering column and probably just heating up one of the fuseable links (instead of blowing it like a normal fuse would)?
I really wont know until I get the socket tool to take off the screws to get in there. I think there is a positive wire barely touching something as its only in a certain area on the wheel. I may have to take the wheel off to so I can see whats in there too. I will post what I find out when I get there.

Thanks all for the info, keep it coming.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:01 PM
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Just another day in the life of a 1st Gen. Sad but true. We love our trucks but some times I don't think they love us back.
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