Ken, try and find that post of mine that Grant found that lists those raybestos brake cables. The reason being is that I know I wrote down the lengths of the three brake cables next to their respective part numbers. I’m curious as to what length you had for that drivers side cable. It should be the same as the 4x4, unless I’m missing something. The only differences in lengths will be at the front cable, from the cab to where it unites with the two rear cables, due to single cab vs. extra cab.

 

Does the spring side of the seal face the inside of the hub or outside?

 

The inside where the lubricant is.

 

With the real installed, you should not be able to see the spring as it should be facing inside the hub where the gear oil Will be.

Be very careful installing that seal. You should be using a seal installation tool, or a socket big enough to match the diameter of the seal. You should never be tapping on the seal directly with a hammer. It damaged / distorts the seal seal, and at $20 a piece,it gets expensive.

 

Thank you.

 

I was typing at the same time you posted. I use a block of wood usually to drive them in.

Also Napa has this degreaser called black max. It works really well. It has caustic soda in it.

 

The parking brake cable for the driver side was correct and had all the clips needed. Raybestos bc93587.

The Carlson h2316 drum brake hardware kit came with two sets of adjusters and the arms. Both sets are for the right side. You would think the kit would be for both sides.

Good thing the arm and adjuster was in good shape.

I have some dragging of the shoes in one spot as I turn the wheel. Not sure why it's doing that. I guess the drums are out of round a little.

I still have to do the other side

 

You got the adjusters from rockauto, right? They are real good for returns. I would call them. They have sent me new parts and not required the return of the old in the past...Mark

 

I did, but now I don't need the other parts since I got the left back together.

 

I've experienced the same thing. Sligtly out of round drums.

I try to minimize this by adjusting till it barely touches while spinning the drum. I then start the truck and cycle the brake pedal a few times. This "centers" the shoes.shut the truck off. I readjust till I get the drum barely touching again, star the truck, cycling the pedal again.

Once I feel comfortable the drums and shoes are as close together, and centered as best as possible, I use a bent pic, push the adjuster level outwards, and loosen the adjuster to where the shoe no longer touches the drum.

After driving for a couple weeks I readjust all over again.

Imo, leaving shoes to drag warps drums, and damages shoes.

Btw. In order for the brakes to " self adjust ", you need to use the parking brake each time you park.


Just my way of doing things.

 

I disagree T man. The parking brake lever and the cylinder perform the same action on the shoes, and the adjusting cable is tightened (lifted) by the motion of one of he shoes. When the motion gets long enough, it clicks the star wheel one click.

 

Next time I have the rear brakes apart, ill test the theory

 

The rear brake shoes pulls the cable on the adjuster. The wheel cylinder does work the adjuster.

 

I agree with Mr. Martin. One way to adjust the brakes is to backup and brake hard a few times. The 76 and 77 El Dorado calipers that I used on the disk conversion are adjusted by the use of the parking brake. The parking brake is a ratcheting setup and will not close as the pads wear,like most types of disk brakes, without using the P-brake...Mark

 

Well, its 3 against one so odd man out.


Lol