I bought the unitized seal 370150a to fix this, however I am not sure if I need a speedi sleeve for it. There is a bad gouge on the sealing surface. Do you guys think this seal will work without a sleeve? Is national sleeve # 99287 the correct one?

How do you determine if the bearings are bad? They look ok however the have a good bit of play between the inner and outer cage. Is that normal? This wheel has the nylock nut with the retainer. Is there a double nut that will fit the same 2 9/16 socket?

Thanks,

Grant

 

 

You can try installing the seal a little deeper, or shallow to miss that groove? But might not be an option due to the size and depth of the bore the seal sits in.

 

When you clean the bearings off, VERY clean, you can inspect them with a low power magnifier for pits and signs of galling. If they appear smooth at say 10x mag then they're probably OK. If you see any cracks at all then it's time for new bearings and races.

I would go with the speedi sleeve on that seal surface. That gouge is pretty bad. I don't know which one you need.

 

 

Thanks guys. I do need the speedi sleeve. Napa had one but it was $60! Rockauto had one for $20. The New seal is leaking. I have 6 miles on it. Do you think the new seal will be ok to reuse? Yes that is a bad gouge. I wonder how it got there? Would you rub some jb weld on it to fill the gouge before sleeving it or just use the green locktite?

 

 

With a speedi sleeve it should come with a new seal since the ID of the seal changes with a speedi sleeve.

 

Please refer to:

Speedi-Sleeve Brochure

"As the same size of seal as the original can be used, there is
no need to search for other seals..."

With that said, I do not think that the unitized seal will work over a speedi-sleeve.

 

Torque King 4x4 (formerly Quad 4x4) has a double spindle nut kit you can use in place of the single, nylock nut and retainer.

https://torqueking.com/product/4000/...ut-kit-amp-so/

 

I do not have back brakes at all. It was just a big mess of black gunk. The pads are just metal strips and the drum has a nice groove in it.
No wonder the parking brakes does not work. I am not sure about the passenger side rear.

Does anyone have an exploded view of the rear brakes on this truck? I think it is best to replace all of the brake hardware and the wheel cylinder.

The truck has been like this since I got it a year ago. It stops reasonably well. I dont drive it much

 

****, that is ugly. Luckily doing the rear brakes isn't terrible. The Service manual should have a diagram and instructions. Mine is in the garage or I would grab you a picture to give an idea.


Don't forget to upgrade to the 3" shoes and the larger wheel cylinder, I forgot and don't want to redo it again till I have too.

 

Is the service manual free downloadable?

 

Not that I am aware of, Genos Garage sells a paper copy (100ish) and a digital copy (30ish). Might be other places to get one as well, mine came with my truck.

 

The drums are supposed to have a cone shaped piece of steel on them that act to prevent that from happening. It deflects the oil and prevents it from entering the drum. It may be that part that gouged and groove the hub: here is a thread from the sticky:



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...Mark P. S. Were those brakes kind of grabby?