Greetings I have just recently joined and I need some suggestions.

Next week at school I plan on doing a cylinder leak down test on my truck. The problem is that at school we do not have the proper adapters for this. I found the proper Snap-on adapter but it is to expensive to justify buying it to use it just this once. So my thought was to take the junk Crapsman compression gauge I have and use the spark plug adapter and weld it to a injector nut. I'm looking for suggestions, different places to get the adapter, will my hair brained sceme work, what have you guys done when it comes to this.

Any help would be appericated

 

The nozzles would have to be out to do the test. Most compression gauges are for gas engines and have a lower scale, a diesel will have lots more cylinder pressure than what most gauges will take.
The cylinder leak teat would be a better test but will require some kind of an adapter.
Is there something wrong with your truck or are you just wanting to learn how to do this test?
The cylinder leak test is good if you have a low cylinder, it will help to determine whether you have a ring, intake or exhaust valve failure.

 

That might work if you could get the threaded area of the retaining nut to seal, because the nut itself was`nt designed to be the seal. Maybe use some teflon tape on the threads? Or if you have access to an old injector you could gut it and use just the body part of the injector (wow that was clear as mud huh?)

 

heres an idea borrow one from diesel shop

 

I am my truck seems to be getting a cold burn. I have white smoke while idling in gear and continues through the rpm range but turns to a more gray. Its not just plain white it does have a hint of blue. I am not losing coolant so I figured a cylinder leakage test would elminate cracked exhaust seats. As an added bonus the class I'm in now is engine diagonsis and I will recieve credit for doing it.

The tool that snap on sells looks like this

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

This is why I thought that my idea might work. I dont have a old injector otherwise I could fab. something from that.

As for borrowing one I doubt there are many techs that will loan me their tool.

Thanks for the responses I will let you know how it turns out.

 

Whose 50 HP injectors do you have? Your symptoms sound like classic POD haze.

 

I wish it were that easy. I got the truck in April, the trans. went in June and then IP went in July. I purchased these injectors off E-bay from a company called Electronic Injection Services. These are new bosch injectors and don't think they are the problem. I am going to test them while their out.

Maybe I ought to go ahead and pick your brains on this one. Here is the background. I noticed this problem right after I put on my stacks. (I think it was doing it all along just more noticeable with the stacks.) I have set the timing at 10 degrees, checked for boost leaks, changed the fuel filter and pulled the return line and have no air in the fuel. I also forgot to mention that my mileage went from 21 mpgs to 15-16 on the highway unloaded.

So this is why I am going to do the cylinder leakage test and if it is good then send the pump off to be pressure tested. If anyone can suggest anything else I would be all ears. As always Thanks for any help.

 

It looks as if your timing is to low bump it up some and see if the haze goes away. Try 15-16* that should help some.

Stomp

 

Like stomp says it sounds like you are late with the injection timing.
White or blue/white smoke is unburned fuel. It could also be the IP setup incorrectly or the injector pop pressure set too high. How did you set the timing? Have you found true TDC and set the pump off of that reading? The leak down test for a class project sounds great. Please post the results and pressures as I would be interested in seeing them. Cheers.

 

I pulled the timing back when I did it as it was set at 17. When it was set that high the truck was shaking bad at idle. I set the timing with my father's diesel timing light that runs off the pluses from the #1` injector. (A heck of a lot easier than doing it the book way.)

The injection pump is my next plan of attack when I get this done. When the injectors are out I'm gonna have them pop tested at the local Mack dealership. At this point I am gonna bargin with them to see if I could use their adapter.

As so as I get this done I will post the numbers for all to see.

 

I think you should take the advice given already and advance your timing to just below where it starts to shake really bad at idle.