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Crewcab update...

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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 11:09 AM
  #961  
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Which PS intercooler are you using? I have one in my truck and I was able to fit everything. I did something most don't do and turned the PSIC upside down.



Originally Posted by thrashingcows
IMO There is no room to mount the condenser in front of the PS IC, unless I want to hack up my grille, and/or the rad support. And I'm not willing to go that route. I already have the PS IC in as close as I can get it without major rad support mods.

So the condenser will get mounted under the box on the passenger side....similar to the "Super duty cooling package" the auto trucks could get.
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 02:07 PM
  #962  
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Hey Anthony....Yes that is how I did mine as well, that is technically considered behind the IC.

The comment about not having enough room to mount the condenser in front of the PS IC was meant to be understood as, the condenser being mounted first in front of the PS IC, so the air would pass through the AC condenser first, BEFORE going through the IC.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 11:15 AM
  #963  
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Crewcab update...

Did you ever by chance do a write up on what is required to convert a 23 spline np 205 to a 29 spline? I'm needing to do this and was wondering seeing what it takes.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 04:47 PM
  #964  
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Originally Posted by bryson711
Did you ever by chance do a write up on what is required to convert a 23 spline np 205 to a 29 spline? I'm needing to do this and was wondering seeing what it takes.
I have meant to, but have not got around to it.

Really not too hard. just make sure you have your new input shaft, and input bearing, and retaining snap ring when you take it in for work. Also make sure your case is stripped all the way down, and clean...my machinist loves it when I bring him my stuff...it's always nice and clean....he hates dirty. Plus once they start cutting the metal pieces will get in everywhere...so an empty case is easy to clean.

Also make sure you have the adapter machined as well, and fit into place. It will not clear the new bearing, snap ring. And you will also need to have the adapter machined out for the new input shaft seal.

I will do a write up....put you can PM if you need more info, or advice and pics.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 10:27 PM
  #965  
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Crewcab update...

I'm actually a machinest by trade. Just was not sure what it all entails. Are write up would be sweet!
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 01:12 AM
  #966  
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Originally Posted by bryson711
I'm actually a machinest by trade. Just was not sure what it all entails. Are write up would be sweet!
I wrote one up...which you know about. Just thought I'd post a link to it in case someone is trolling through my build thread.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ersion-322950/
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 01:23 AM
  #967  
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OK last night I messed up my Hydro boost unit....here's my post from last night.

Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Well tonight I decided I would try and pop out the super long push rod on my hydroboost unit...since it came from a 2000 cummins truck. Well after some redneck engineering, and totally ignoring Mknittles neat little push rod pulling tool, I ended up wrecking my unit!....

Guess you really do need to make sure your puller rests against the small crimped collar.

Should have read the post #29 in this thread...it was posted up, but I never did click the link.

1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Quote:
(NOTE: you can't press off of the hydroboost housing itself, you have to press against the little collar that is crimped around the ball end)
Guess I'm heading to the wreckers to grab one from a 90's astro van. I had everything to do the swap finally....and the push rod was the last thing I needed to get out of the way. Hope the 2nd Gen lines I have will work on the GM unit.
So here the photographic evidence of "bad" redneck engineering.

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And the carnage it cause inside the HB unit....

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The pushrod was attached to the collar, which was attached to the pushrod off the piston, and that big spring was on the piston pushrod as well. No fixing that!
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 01:28 AM
  #968  
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So this morning I headed out to the local pick-a-part and managed to find a unit from a 95 Astro Van. The 95 and earlier GM/Chev vans have the correct bracket to directly bolt to the 1st Gen firewall.

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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 01:35 AM
  #969  
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And I decided to make the proper push rod puller. Spent a couple hours putting this together. Thanks Mark (MKnittle) for the pics on building this baby!

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And thought I'd pull the 2nd Gen pushrod properly from the broken piece, as a trial run on the new puller. Due to the super long push rod I had to toss on a couple pieces of 1" box tube as extensions.....puller worked like a charm!

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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 10:46 PM
  #970  
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Disregard that last PM regarding an OEM intercooler, TC. Didn't see this that you had already went with a PS IC.
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Old Oct 9, 2015 | 12:09 PM
  #971  
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Disregard that last PM regarding an OEM intercooler, TC. Didn't see this that you had already went with a PS IC.
........
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 01:38 AM
  #972  
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Last couple weeks I've started to get an occasional stumble when starting...or should I say it's taking more then the normal 1/2 crank to fire. I was pretty sure it was a fuel leak somewhere.

I popped the hood the other night when fueling....to check the oil...and noticed that there was a strong diesel smell. So out came the flash light and it looked like my IP was pretty damp. So today I sprayed on simple green, let it sit for a bit, then hosed it off. Then did some running around. Got back home and it looks like it's leaking between the main body of the IP and the top. Perhaps I damaged the seal when I did the 3200 spring? Because I re-sealed the IP less then 2 years ago.

Also noticed that the push on inlet fuel line fitting running into the lift pump seems to be leaking as well. Are there O-rings in this fitting? I can't recall from when I had them off.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 12:09 AM
  #973  
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OK now to the installtion on my truck.....

First off I wanted to use as much of the 2000 Cummins system I could, lines included. But did not want the big firewall bracket. The Astro Van unit provided the perfect swap since it's firewall bracket is a direct swap onto the 1st Gen firewall....no mods required (if you use all GM stuff)....almost.

Since I wanted to use the Dodge assembly I had to alter the alignment if the HB unit, since Dodge uses a master cylinder adapter bracket the turns the HB about 45* clockwise.

Dodge vs Astro Van.....you can see the alignment tab location differs.

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And my solution to the alignment.

I measured everything out and located where the new tab would be located on the Astro van bracket. I was going to weld up the area then hand file it to fit, but once I started removing some material for the weld to bite into I noticed that perhaps there was another way.

I put the bracket on the tailshaft and noticed that perhaps I could use something as a keyway? Started wandering around the shop and came across some roller bearings from either my NV4500 or NP205 rebuild. Tried one and it fit perfect, just had to cut it to length!

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I measured everything out and located where the new tab would be located on the Astro van bracket. I was going to weld up the area then hand file it to fit, but once I started removing some material for the weld to bite into I noticed that
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 12:30 AM
  #974  
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Then it was rebuild and reseal time. I won't go into what I did to redo my HB unit...since I followed this thread to the letter.

Hydroboost reseal tutorial (long)

Follow this one and you can't go wrong.

All done...

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I purchased a re-seal kit from E-bay seller "Pirate jack" part # 2771004X or 2771004. You'll have a few O-rings left over from the rebuild.

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And installing the firewall bracket.

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And how do you tighten up that 4 sided nut....I used brass punches and a hammer to get it loose, but this wouldn't work to tighten. Finally came across my grandfathers old chain wrench...worked like a champ!

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Highly recommend this for removal, and installation of that nut.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 12:31 AM
  #975  
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Then all that was left was to make up an adjustable pedal to HB pushrod. I took the ball end off the dodge HB, and cut off the push rod from an old vacuum booster. Then cut each to about 2.35 inches in length, and then threaded each 1/2 x 13 NC. Got a coupler and a jam but and was done.

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I also filed two flat sides on the dodge ball end so I could use a crescent wrench to hold it while working on things.

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Then used a big rubber hammer to band the pushrod back in. Used a flat chisel and a block of wood to re-stake the push rod.

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You can also see the foam/neoprene gasket I made. Just used an old gasket and traced it out on a sheet of the material then cut it out. It is sticky once side so just peal and stick in place!

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