Clutch master saving tip
Clutch master saving tip
I had a few minutes to kill this afternoon after mowing the lawn, so I thought I'd crawl under the dash and figure out why the clutch pedal was about half as low as the brake pedal. The pin that goes in the end of the pushrod was worn 2/3 of the way through,
and the pushrod was worn so far oval I was able to break the end off with my bare hands. OK, I'm thinking "I'm totally screwed, now I gotta get a new clutch master and slave assembly, where the heck am I gonna get that at 6:30?" ??? So here's what I did - I cut the pushrod back about 1/2 " and threaded it 3/8 x 16, cut down a 3/8 eyebolt to about 3/4 of an inch and put it together with a coupling nut, cut about 3/8 of an inch off it, too, to get the pushrod length close to right. Then I took down the clutch pedal (a fun job, but not half as fun as putting it back up), hacked off the old pin and punched it out of the hole in the pedal. Then I took a 1/2 x 2 inch bolt, 3 nuts, 2 washers, and a 3/4 inch copper pipe coupler and set it up as follows: Grind one nut to 1/2 thickness, drill the threads out of another, leave the third alone. Cut the 3/4 inch coupler to slightly less than the thickness of the drilled out nut. Now assemble like this: Put the clutch pedal up - not fun. Slide the master back through the firewall, but don't lock it in. Assemble your pin and bushing setup - bolt points towards passenger side, one washer, drilled nut with copper bushing over it inside eyebolt (grease all this stuff), second washer, half thickness nut, bolt through clutch pedal, third nut holds to clutch pedal. Now lock in the master, tighten the bolt, and you have a clutch so you can go to work tomorrow.
and the pushrod was worn so far oval I was able to break the end off with my bare hands. OK, I'm thinking "I'm totally screwed, now I gotta get a new clutch master and slave assembly, where the heck am I gonna get that at 6:30?" ??? So here's what I did - I cut the pushrod back about 1/2 " and threaded it 3/8 x 16, cut down a 3/8 eyebolt to about 3/4 of an inch and put it together with a coupling nut, cut about 3/8 of an inch off it, too, to get the pushrod length close to right. Then I took down the clutch pedal (a fun job, but not half as fun as putting it back up), hacked off the old pin and punched it out of the hole in the pedal. Then I took a 1/2 x 2 inch bolt, 3 nuts, 2 washers, and a 3/4 inch copper pipe coupler and set it up as follows: Grind one nut to 1/2 thickness, drill the threads out of another, leave the third alone. Cut the 3/4 inch coupler to slightly less than the thickness of the drilled out nut. Now assemble like this: Put the clutch pedal up - not fun. Slide the master back through the firewall, but don't lock it in. Assemble your pin and bushing setup - bolt points towards passenger side, one washer, drilled nut with copper bushing over it inside eyebolt (grease all this stuff), second washer, half thickness nut, bolt through clutch pedal, third nut holds to clutch pedal. Now lock in the master, tighten the bolt, and you have a clutch so you can go to work tomorrow.
Re:Clutch master saving tip
Good job.<br><br>I haven't tried using copper pipe as a bushing for this sort of application, but I have had some success using grade 8 hardware in similar repairs by welding a threaded nut onto a push-rod, bell-crank, etc. and threading it onto a machine screw for a pivot. The inspiration is from the old threaded bushing that Jeep, Dodge, etc. used to use on thier spring shackles . . .<br><br>Anyway, let us know how it wears.<br><br>Alec
Re:Clutch master saving tip
Changed my late night jerry-rig out already. It was a temporary, gotta get to work in the morning kind of fix. Probably would have lasted a couple of years before the copper wore out or the eyebolt opened up. Here's the permanent fix: I got a 1/2 inch rod end from Grainger, put a bolt in the end and sawed it off, drilled and tapped for 3/8-16 and threaded it on there, put the 1/2 inch bolt through it and the clutch pedal with a couple of strategically placed washers to keep it from binding. The rod end will outlast the truck, and maybe even the Cummins. Real smooooth, too. ;D
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