cam removal/install
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Lloydminster,AB Canada
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I have done one as well as having a few cummins torn down for other stuff. Basically you need to:
I like to set the engine to number 1 TDC first so you know where your at then,
Pull the rad and intercooler, move the AC condensor off to the side and unhook or move the trans cooler. You will have to cut the center support for the rad support. This is the vertical support in front of the engine. Pull the valve covers, remove the rockers, and pull out your push rods.
Now you need to pull the stuff off the front of the engine. Pull the belt, fan and shroud, pull off the harmonic balancer and pulley, remove the bolts for the timing case cover and remove the cover.
Now the fun starts. You will need 12-1" wooden dowels (i think 1" lol) . These are pressed down into the lifters down inside the engine. I tapped them down with a rubber mallet. You should feel and see a positive drop as they are pushed down into the lifters. From there you need to gently pull up on the dowels untill the lifters are sitting against the block. This will keep the lifters from catching on the cam as you pull it out. You will need to rubber band each "pair" of dowels together so they dont fall back down. Once you have all the lifters "floating" in the engine you can unbolt the cam retainer bolts and start to slide out the cam. You need to be VERY VERY gentle as you dont want to bump the lifters or mark the cam bearings. If you get aggresive you may knock a lifter off the dowel and it will fall into the engine. (very bad!!). Once the cam is out get the gear pressed off and pressed onto the new cam. Make sure it is lubed up real well with cam lube and do the reverse of the uninstall. Pushing the cam back in is not much fun. The last few cam bearings are not fun as you have very little leverage just take your time and be gentle.
You can pull the lifters out if you think they are worn or if you are installing a new cam and not a regrind. I didnt change mine but some swear you should. To do that you will need to do a lot more work. Basically you get a tube the same size as the cam journal bearing and cut it in about half. You then slide that in the cam hole and drop the lifters into it by gently pulling up on the woden dowl so the lifters drop into the tube. Slide the tube out with the lifter and remove. Put a plug (cut a short piece of dowel, maybe 1 1/2 - 2") and attach a string to it about 48" long and then a small piece of metal too the end of that. Insert the dowel piece into the new lifter and make sure its secure. You will insert the string and lifter onto the tube slide that into the engine. Go fishing in the hole with a dowl and a magnet on the end. Catch the piece of metal on the magnet and fish the lifter up into place. Tie the string off so the lifter stays in place. You can spin the tube over so the lifter sits on it and pull the string/dowl chunk out of the lifter and insert the proper dowel rod. Do this for all the lifters and then continue with the standard cam reinstall as mentioned above. This is very tedious so take your time and be patient. Dropping one single lifter into the motor means dropping the pan so again be CAREFULL.
I am sure I forgot a few things or spelled some thing wrong but this is basically what you need to do. I have added a few pics (sorry about the quality). These should help you understand what to do with the dowels. If you have any other questions just ask I should be able to help.
P.S. I had the head off but you dont have to, its just easier if it is.
I like to set the engine to number 1 TDC first so you know where your at then,
Pull the rad and intercooler, move the AC condensor off to the side and unhook or move the trans cooler. You will have to cut the center support for the rad support. This is the vertical support in front of the engine. Pull the valve covers, remove the rockers, and pull out your push rods.
Now you need to pull the stuff off the front of the engine. Pull the belt, fan and shroud, pull off the harmonic balancer and pulley, remove the bolts for the timing case cover and remove the cover.
Now the fun starts. You will need 12-1" wooden dowels (i think 1" lol) . These are pressed down into the lifters down inside the engine. I tapped them down with a rubber mallet. You should feel and see a positive drop as they are pushed down into the lifters. From there you need to gently pull up on the dowels untill the lifters are sitting against the block. This will keep the lifters from catching on the cam as you pull it out. You will need to rubber band each "pair" of dowels together so they dont fall back down. Once you have all the lifters "floating" in the engine you can unbolt the cam retainer bolts and start to slide out the cam. You need to be VERY VERY gentle as you dont want to bump the lifters or mark the cam bearings. If you get aggresive you may knock a lifter off the dowel and it will fall into the engine. (very bad!!). Once the cam is out get the gear pressed off and pressed onto the new cam. Make sure it is lubed up real well with cam lube and do the reverse of the uninstall. Pushing the cam back in is not much fun. The last few cam bearings are not fun as you have very little leverage just take your time and be gentle.
You can pull the lifters out if you think they are worn or if you are installing a new cam and not a regrind. I didnt change mine but some swear you should. To do that you will need to do a lot more work. Basically you get a tube the same size as the cam journal bearing and cut it in about half. You then slide that in the cam hole and drop the lifters into it by gently pulling up on the woden dowl so the lifters drop into the tube. Slide the tube out with the lifter and remove. Put a plug (cut a short piece of dowel, maybe 1 1/2 - 2") and attach a string to it about 48" long and then a small piece of metal too the end of that. Insert the dowel piece into the new lifter and make sure its secure. You will insert the string and lifter onto the tube slide that into the engine. Go fishing in the hole with a dowl and a magnet on the end. Catch the piece of metal on the magnet and fish the lifter up into place. Tie the string off so the lifter stays in place. You can spin the tube over so the lifter sits on it and pull the string/dowl chunk out of the lifter and insert the proper dowel rod. Do this for all the lifters and then continue with the standard cam reinstall as mentioned above. This is very tedious so take your time and be patient. Dropping one single lifter into the motor means dropping the pan so again be CAREFULL.
I am sure I forgot a few things or spelled some thing wrong but this is basically what you need to do. I have added a few pics (sorry about the quality). These should help you understand what to do with the dowels. If you have any other questions just ask I should be able to help.
P.S. I had the head off but you dont have to, its just easier if it is.
#5
Registered User
holly cow... That looks like a pretty big job... How much improvement is there in a cam upgrade, is it like night and day?? It would have to make some pretty durastic improvement to get me in the mood for that!!
#6
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Location: Lloydminster,AB Canada
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It doesnt make a huge difference but with my fairly heavy fueling and some what larger charger it helped. Boost comes on faster and EGT's are definetly cooler. I am not sure how much better milage I am getting but I still get 16-17mpg with a set of 6-18 injectors so that cant be to bad. If you are not heavy on fueling or have an overly large charger then I wouldnt bother. On my truck I also didnt bother changing lifters as my cam looked brand new still but as stated above some people say you should. (local cummins shop said dont bother, good enough for me)
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#11
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I have heard of guys using hose clamps to hold the lifters up.
You would have to pull the IP and tappet cover, but then there is far less chance of getting one in the pan.
You would have to pull the IP and tappet cover, but then there is far less chance of getting one in the pan.
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