Can anyone give me any advice on removing the cam gear? I'm planning on spending turkey day putting a 12 valve back together and I want to go prepared. The whole goal of this project is to replace a broke fuel pump gear and gear housing but I think I need to remove the cam gear to do so. Thanks.

 

I've done several gear housings, and I've always removed the camshaft with the gear attached. I'm sure the gear can be removed with a simple 3 jaw puller (without removing the camshaft), but how does one re-install the gear?

 

Thanks Torquefan. How much work is required to remove the camshaft with gear attached? Any special tools required?

 

You need a special puller, a 3 jaw can't grip the gear hub with the thrust plate installed. Monaco Tools in Oregon has the tool. The Cummins tool require the cam to be pulled forward. After the gear is off (SLIGHT heating of the hub without heating the cam maybe required), put the gear in an oven at 350-400*F. If possible, get a small bottle of liquid nitrogen or a couple of cans of R134A. Just before you want to slide the gear back on the cam, use the cold stuff on the cam snout to shrink it as much as possible, then the heated cam gear will slide right on. Don't hammer on the gear very hard, if at all as you can push the cam back in the block and dislodge the soft plug at the back of cam, and that is bad news.

Monaco tools has a website, can't remember the address but google will find them.

 

Sounds like a plan. Is that still easier than removing the whole cam? It sounds like this is going to be my only hiccup in the whole operation. I am thinking I can remove the oil pan to clean out the metal pieces without totally removing the engine. What a way to spend turkey day!

 

One the gear housing is off you may be able to fish the pieces out with a magnet. Other wise you will need to pull the pan, or if the pieces are large enough you could leave them since the pickup tube has a screen. I would prefer to take the pieces out, but I know several trucks running around with pieces in the pan!

To pull the cam you'll have to pull the radiator, CAC (if equipped) and grill. Then loosen the rocker adjustment screws and pull the push tubes out. You can take 1/2" wood dowels and stick them in the lifters, pull them up and tie them off to hold the lifters, or let them fall in the pan and get them out later. Next bar the engine over until the thrust plate bolts line up with the hand hole in the cam gear and take the bolts out. If you aren't careful here the thrust plate will fall into the pan (not a problem if the lifters are down their and you are going to pull the pan anyway).

Then, simply install (all the parts you took out and then adjust, bust knuckles, etc. etc.)

I prefer to use the Monaco tools puller since the cam can be left in the block without pulling it forward at all.

 

Thats a lot of help, I really appreciate the info. Its going to be a dirty, but fun job. Anything else to look out for? I'm usually okay around a wrench but it seems like there's always something that gets left out and I want to be sure all bases are covered. I am going to try to overnight a service book in on Monday. Thanks again for all the help.

 

Just take your time and make sure everything is right. If you have any doubt stop and get more information, what you are dealing with are relatively simple parts, but they can turn into a complicated and expensive problem quickly if you are not careful.

Make sure you have the engine in the correct position for timing purposes and that all the marks on the gears are lined up. Then have it, shouldn't be too bad of a job.

 

Good deal. I am excited about getting it back on the road. Hey, W900A, I notice you have a '74 F250 waiting for a swap. I've got that same truck (hi-boy model) that I wanted to do the same thing with. Currently I am putting a 4BT into a '59 F-100 4x4. Its the first year Ford had 4 wheel drive and I'm probably doing a stupid thing by converting to diesel because the truck is in perfect shape (barn kept for last 20 or so years). Its going to be a custom cab alright - when I get done with it. I just lack plumbing it in, working out clutch linkage, and putting body back together. There's probably other forums for this so I'll quit now. Anyway, thanks again for the help.

 

My 74 is also a factory Hi-Boy. The truck is a frame off restoration, but was in great shape to begin with. I haven't really gotten too far into the swap yet. I don't even have the engine mounted yet as I'm fine tuning the mounts. I haven't figure out a clutch linkage setup either, that's down the road a piece though.

That 59 sounds like a nice truck. It is a same to repower it, but I think in another aspect it's really cool, especially if you don't have to hack the body on it!

Good luck with your gear housing project.

 

W900A The 1/2 wood dowls work great! I've even used round megnets with holes in them! click em on and string to tie them off!!