crossy

I'm trying to get the rear portion of the timing case off because it is broken and I am down to nothing left but the case bolt that hides behind the big cam gear. Do I need a three finger puller to get that gear off? , thanx, crossy

lifer

The gear is pressed on to the cam. You have to pull the cam out of the engine to remove the rear timing case. I have never pulled one off but my understanding is that it has to be put in a press to remove it. I t has to be heated to about 350 to put it back on.

cj360trider

you can get it off while in truck but its a very pricey special puller and yes heat to go back on

Tate

Three jaw puller from NAPA or any auto/industrial supply place will pull the gear. Heat the gear in a toaster oven and it'll slide back on. Just remember to support the cam as it has no rear thrust surface, as the gear is it. Keep the cam pried forward when installing the gear.

crossy

usually about 300* for an interference right? I have to assume there IS a line up key of some sort due to timing ? holy Cow, if this doesn't work the price of my FREE help for this kid just went up. :-(.
thanx guys ----AND any links to this OR cam removal AND for timing mark line up would be appreciated. I haven't looked through stickys for that yet. crossy

lifer

300 degrees wold be the lowest I would heat to. The metal will not start to change at the molecular level until 400 degrees. As a millwright I have pulled and installed a lot of press fits. We usually heat them to 350 degrees because by the time you get the part on the shaft it will lose some heat. If it is too cool it will either not start on the fit or it will lock on before you have it in the right place on the fit. take note of its location on the fit before you pull it by taking a straight edge across the gear to the end of the cam and measure how far the gear is on the cam. Make sure it goes back on to that point. Let us know how it goes. Read the next post before you try pulling the gear.

lifer

If it does not want to pull off with the 3 jaw puller . Use heat from a torch to supliment the gear puller. Just make sure you keep the torch moving around the gear and heat it from the outside going in until it pops. Make sure you have the puller cranked up with full tension while you are heating it.
P.S. do not put the puller around the outside of the gear. use a 3 jaw and put the jaws of the puller through the holes it the gear so they pull on the center of the timing gear. It is cast iron and if you try to pull it from the outer circumfrance you will break it before it starts to pull off the cam.

infidel

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...tructions.html

crossy

@ lifer & others. the ultimate puller for THIS gear would have fingers that were turned 90* from the mounting position, but be that as it may I understand about the heat and pressure at same time as I am a maintenenace mech. by trade. Very seldom we have to do this old school type pulling anymore_NOT- the plant i work at is a dinosaur. ANYWAY since I have every sort of puller available to me other than what i needed i headed to TSC(tractor Supply) and bought an 8" Masterhand brand for $40. You can only get the finger into the backside if you have the gear in one position only ,and it requires removing the upper bolt out of the Camshaft retaining plate behind the gear to get that one fat finger in there. I picked this puller because it had the fingers that you can reverse and they are fairly flat on the backside because space to get it in there is at a minimum. The side of it i used also has bolt slots in them. the standard side of the fingers on this puller and even the next smaller size version would never get in there. I was afraid of that cast iron gear busting too, but i put pressure on it and heated to 350*-ish and tapped the puller's center bolt a few times. I let her cool down and on the fourth cycle of repeating that I heard that 'TING' that is either good news or bad news and it was good news. I got it. It wound off of there hard almost the whole way. NOW i have to do it all again to get the GOOD timing housing off of the BAD engine. I real glad for this kid that he got the engine for $500 cheaper because of the 'help' dropping it off the forklift and breaking the cover. I hope he tips me well :-) , thanx guys, Crossy

1SlowVE

All I can say is GOOD LUCK pulling the gear in truck.

infidel

The puller that works for me is a three jaw that has a cage that tightens down on the outside to keep the jaws from spreading outward when you torque down on it.
Excellent product but I don't recall the brand name.

lifer

Sounds like its a Posi-lock brand puller. Do you know what number it is? I would guess its a 104 or a 106. The 104 will give 5 tons of pulling force, the 106 will give 10 tons but the 106 is about twice the size of the 104. I am going to need to pull my gear one of these days so I want to pick up one of these pullers. Its a fine line between enough pulling power and the phyisical size of the puller. I would guess it would need at least 5 tons to pull off the gear without having to heat it but it might need more.

My gasket between the block and timing case is leaking. When I fixed my kdp it was just about ready to fall out but my timing case bolts were all loose too. I cleaned everything up as good as possible and locktighted all the bolts but it is still leaking behind the injector pump at the gasket so I am going to need to pull the gear to take it all apart and put a new gasket in there.

crossy

here it is brother. Came off easy. what i learned from pulling the first one off in the garage was that You should put a hardened washer on the front of the cam because the first time the puller ground into the front of the cam.That causes no problem other than i didn't like it. I will admit that this one in the truck seemed to come off a bit too easy to get off.
The biggest PITA was getting the fan off. Luckily at the shop they had one of those nifty air hammer attachment kits. MAN! are those things sweet --remember-- left handed threads. LOL
Mysteriously though---- there was --NO-- KDP to be found in this engine.But it does havea completely melted piston in #6 cylinder. thanx for the help & hope that pic helps anyone who has to do it in truck. . Crossy

infidel

I see a propane torch in the picture, did you have to heat it?

crossy

@infedel- Not this one- this engine had already been severely overheated more than once and everything was loose. >LOL
I had my torch and laser pyrometer ready though.