gozapper

Is this a 1st gen engine? Looks like a 1st gen vacum pump.
Did you have to remove the IP . Looks like it have be pure luck for those teeth to line up while sliding the hot gear on the cam shaft. Does the cam has a key ?

crossy

yep it's a first gen and in the first gen thread section. there are two different style vacuum pumps for the N/I and I/C engines. It's not pure luck- you do have a 1:72 chance, lol.. I made a hub from a broken cam gear to turn the cam. I also found out the engine will lock up like it's broke when the crank and cam dont turn together-- it's called pistons hitting valves. lol once I started turning the cam the engine turned over further. this was a unique situation here and i learned a lot from it I just wish i wasn't doing it ALLfor free. I JUST bought the barring tool, but didn't have it so i used balancer bolts in the front of the crank and a pry bar to turn it. WHEN you finally catch on-- and have the crank gear single O lined up with the cam gear DOUBLE OO's then the cam gears SINGLE O will already be in the right spot to line up with the IP gear letter E or C whichever you coose. The IP Gear has ONLY 6 different positions(more like notches) on the 360* scale so you may have to tweak the crank/cam gear combo with the barring tool to get the mark to line up, The IP is NOT responsive to light movement it 'pops' into it's next of six positions, this is especially important to know if you want to advance it a tooth like i did. I highlighted all the factory marks with a paint pen to make it all easier to see. this would really be helpful if viewing only thru the oil fill tube hole OR if your eyes are getting old ;-( . Crossy

crossy

found out the REAL reason i didn't have to heat it, there were two cracks in it and one was all the way through the center of the hub ,relieving the 'interference fit it was intended to have. I put the broken gear to good use and made a hub out of it that i used to turn the cam with gear teeth intereference.
I think i could talk anyone through this mess now. Crossy

rebar

If the cam is removed with the gear still on. Can I use a press to remove the gear if I dont have the three jaw puller? Sounds straight forward, except I cant support the gear hub (where the jaws would hook) because the front cam bearing journal is almost bigger than the hub.

Or could I simply support the gear. Heat it fast with Oxy Acetylene Torch and let it drop out?

Thanks

crossy

the one i had to remove with a 3 jaw was way tighter than just a warm up would make it drop off. removing the cam requires 'other' removals first. you can rent/borrow 3 jaws from any auto store. Crossy

dieseldemon

Yes press it off do not use the acetylene torch as you might get hot spots and make brittle spots that will crack later

rebar

Came off nicely in the press with a bearing splitter under the gear hub.

So oven heating only.. That's good to know dieseldemon because I was going to use our O.E. cherry bomb on the cam gear install, which we use to heat 200 hp pump motor couplers for install.

BigIron70

I have done a few cam removals in the last month. Mostly because of oil leaks from timing cover. You will need the tools which can be fabricated. Wooden dowels and a tube to install when cam is removed to prevent lifters from dropping into oil pan. Also to retrieve lifters if replacing. You will need to remove radiator and intercooler. AC condenser can stay in but needs to be unbolted from intercooler so cam will come out. Motor mount bolts need to be loosen so engine can be lifted about 10 inches so cam gear will clear bumper when pulled.


CAMSHAFT
1.Disconnect both battery negative cables.
2.Recover A/C refrigerant (if A/C equipped) (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
3.Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5.Lower vehicle.
6.Remove radiator upper hose.
7.Remove viscous fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
8.Disconnect the coolant recovery bottle hose from the radiator filler neck.
9.Disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator outlet.
10.Automatic Transmission models: Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from front of radiator using Special Tool 6931 (unless equipped with finger-release disconnect).
11.Remove radiator mounting screws and lift radiator out of engine compartment.
12.Remove upper radiator support panel.
13.If A/C equipped, disconnect A/C condenser refrigerant lines.
14.Disconnect charge air cooler piping from the cooler inlet and outlet.
15.Remove the two charge air cooler mounting bolts.
16.Remove charge air cooler (and A/C condenser if equipped) from vehicle.
17.Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
18.Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
19.Remove the fan support/hub assembly.
20.Remove crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL).
21.Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar the sealing surfaces. Remove dust seal with cover.
22.Using Special Tool 7471–B Crankshaft Barring Tool, rotate the crankshaft to align the timing marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft gears.
23.Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).




24.Remove the rocker arms, cross heads, and push rods. Mark each component so they can be installed in their original positions.
NOTE: The # 5 cylinder intake and the # 6 cylinder intake and exhaust pushrods are removed by lifting them up and through the provided cowl panel access holes. Remove the rubber plugs to expose these relief holes.






25.Raise the tappets as follows, using the wooden dowel rods provided with the Miller Tool Kit 8502. a.Insert the slotted end of the dowel rod into the tappet. The dowel rods for the rear two cylinders will have to be cut for cowl panel clearance. Press firmly to ensure that it is seated in the tappet.
b.Raise the dowel rod to bring the tappet to the top of its travel, and wrap a rubber band around the dowel rods to prevent the tappets from dropping into the crankcase.
c.Repeat this procedure for the remaining cylinders.






26.Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the crankshaft mark.
27.Remove the bolts from the thrust plate.
28.Remove engine mount through bolts.
29.Install engine support fixture special tool # 8534, and steel bracket/wing nut special tool # 8534A.
30.Raise engine enough to allow camshaft removal.
31.Remove the camshaft, gear and thrust plate.