Blown HG :(
06-03-2010, 10:32 PM
#34
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If I jam on mine and get anywhere near 40PSI I start squeezing antifreeze down the block! Got the ARP's, waiting for time and energy.
06-04-2010, 02:38 PM
#35
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See my other post.
06-05-2010, 04:58 AM
#36
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how tight can you torque ARP studs without hurting anything? I just did mine (head gasket, 60lb VS, 4K kit) and i torqued the studs to 150. I have been driving for about a week now and they havent needed a retorque... When we did this project, we had the truck from running to running in 6 1/2 hours to include bottom tapping the block and doing all the other assorted tasks like valve seals. Could I potentially hurt something?
06-05-2010, 09:44 AM
#37
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ARP expressly says not to go over 125. That being said, we put them at 130 
.
In my mind since the studs have a finer thread pitch on the top where the nut is, the same tq. would give you more clamping force?
I have went to 135 on the old non/IC bolts and they were fine. Like Big Stinky said make sure you have clean, oiled threads. Don't forget under the bolt heads, and where they sit on the head, that makes a huge difference. I prefer ARP lube on them. Try one dry, and then fully lubed, you will be amazed how much better they torque down.
. In my mind since the studs have a finer thread pitch on the top where the nut is, the same tq. would give you more clamping force?
I have went to 135 on the old non/IC bolts and they were fine. Like Big Stinky said make sure you have clean, oiled threads. Don't forget under the bolt heads, and where they sit on the head, that makes a huge difference. I prefer ARP lube on them. Try one dry, and then fully lubed, you will be amazed how much better they torque down.
06-09-2010, 11:29 AM
#39
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Hmm well getting close to having my finances straight. Il be getting the factory cummins marine grade gasket, mag-ing the head, oring it and then wait a while longer till ARP's are in my price range. Once i get it all put back together ill set the waste gate to 30psi. till i can get studs.
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