This is a problem more then one person has had to deal with....trying to loosen that blasted idle nut on the back side of the IP. I did my 366 spring today and then wanted to adjust my idle.

Not only did it take me an a long friggin time to get that nut loose and out of the way, but I did not want to have to to try and adjust the idle with it in the stock set-up.

So I started looking at another way I could lock the idle shaft down, but still have it reasonably easy to do.

Here is the idle screw in the stock form...



Here's what I came up with. I was looking for a long nut, or type of nut that I could mount on the front side of the idle shaft. The problem with this is that if it's too short then you won't be able to loosen or tighten the nut down. So what I found was a Nyloc nut that had the same fine thread as the idle shaft. Then heated it up until the nylon melted out.



Then I installed it backwards on the forward part of the shaft. This left it long enough to be able to get a wrench on the nut.







I turned the idle shaft around thinking that it would be easier to adjust from the front, but it was actually a lot more difficult to adjust it this way. So I will be turning the shaft back around to the stock orientation, but leaving the nut on the front side!

 

I did the same thing, although I didn't have much space to put the nut on the front. The threads were barely out enough for fitting the nut.

There is a thread somewhere here where the OEM rod and nut are removed, and a new stop is placed out in front, which allows for easy adjustment. A bracket is placed in front of the throttle lever, and an adjustable threaded rod or nut is placed there. This creates a stop out in front, instead of behind, and makes for easy adjustment.

I haven't done it, but then again, I haven't played around much either..

 

Good idea, t-cows.

As much exposed thread as it appears you have, you could also use a long "coupling" nut cut to length.

I improved upon this idea:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=144126

I added a second bolt through the bracket that abuts against the gear-case to act as a brace.

I used a 5/16 fine-thread bolt, threaded the bracket, and used lock-nuts to hold the adjustment.

The original idle screw is backed off all the way and stored there "just in case"

 

T-Man....I will post up a pic of the idle rod and nut now that it is installed and adjusted. Not much thread sticking out past the nut...but enough.

BK....I did look at the set-up you went with. It's a good idea...but I didn't feel like doing any fabricating yesterday.

 

Mine is kind of like bear killer's. It's way better than stock.

 

That's exactly what I was talking about.

 

Forgot some of the threads I have done....

Archived...

https://web.archive.org/web/20171101...lution-319479/

 

Isn't archiving fun? ...Mark Edit: I might as well make this post useful. I figured out that if you are archiving a thread with more that 2 pages that if you copy the thread url as the wayback machine is saving the second page, you can then just paste it into the address bar and just change the /page2/ to /page3/, /page4/, etc. etc., and it will archive it automatically. That way you only have to copy and paste the first 2 pages. If you already figured this out, nevermind...P.S. When you are done with yours, you are welcome to practice this technique on the "what did you do to your 1st gen today" thread. Don't worry, it won't bother me...

 

Yup that is what I have been doing....start a page archiving, then go to the next page and fix the pics needed and by the time I'm done the archiving is ready for the next page. It's a little tedious....but gotta be done if I/We want this information to survive.

Thanks for the heads up though!