Air flo with heat elements removed
Air flo with heat elements removed
Would removing the heat elements in a 90 non intercooled
facilitate more air flo. It looks like one big intake blockage to me.
Also winters in East Texas are pretty mild.
Any thoughts.
THANKS..RM
facilitate more air flo. It looks like one big intake blockage to me.
Also winters in East Texas are pretty mild.
Any thoughts.
THANKS..RM
I know of an 800+ HP 24 valve truck that still has the grids, they can't be choking it off too bad. You don't need them for starting until it gets below zero, they just cut down on white smoke when the engine is cold. I've got a fried relay on mine, it has started fine all winter. Wouldn't hurt anything to try it, I'm sure they are somewhat restrictive.
Mine are gone. No change in boost or EGT. I never did like loading the alternator with that thing cycling like it does though. Mine starts at 5 degrees, just a little rougher and more smoke. Also, no KSB either. Soon it will have a choke cable for a fuel shut off and a missing solenoid plunger. Basic industrial style type stuff. Take the battery out and throw it away. Just park on a hill
It does have an oil pan heater, I decided to try that after the block heater pooped out. I really like it. At 5 degrees my oil pan registered 110. The oil light goes out the same as when it's warmed up. The next time it's going to get below 0 I'll leave it unplugged and see what happens. I think it will start just fine. If not, a 50 mile taxicab fare to work will make me re-think my thinking. Jim
It does have an oil pan heater, I decided to try that after the block heater pooped out. I really like it. At 5 degrees my oil pan registered 110. The oil light goes out the same as when it's warmed up. The next time it's going to get below 0 I'll leave it unplugged and see what happens. I think it will start just fine. If not, a 50 mile taxicab fare to work will make me re-think my thinking. Jim
I would strongly recommend NOT leaving it unplugged at 0 degrees, at least not on a school-night. Cranking speed is the most critical part of starting a diesel, and when that oil gets thick, it really slows down the starter motor . . .
Don't worry, we'll try to arrange it ( with mother nature's help) on a weekend. I'm the kind of weird-o that has to know this kind of stuff. It makes me cringe to put the old thing through a test like that, but it is just a TEST. Will the mighty Cummins start at 0 (or below) with NO starting aids ? Stay tuned, I'm waiting for winter to really get here!
Jim. P.S. Rusty- do a search for KSB- it's all here.
Jim. P.S. Rusty- do a search for KSB- it's all here.
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why would you want to put your motor thru that test? In this last go around of sub zero weather here I had no choice but to drive my truck and leave it unplugged at work. It started everytime, but man did it take a long time for the (aftermarket) oil psi gauge to register anything, and then another 5min of high idle to get it up to full psi. If I had a pan warmer I'd plug it in every chance I had....your bearings will surely thank you
Furious70- In other words, you have already done the test for me! After I posted that, I really thought that would be a stupid thing to do unless it was an emergency. We live in a very rural area, and the power sometimes goes out for hours at a time. Maybe we'll just wait for something like that, where I have no control of the situation. It has started at 7 below with out being plugged in, but that was with the grids working. I know about the oil pressure deal, it seemed like I grew a 5 'o clock shadow before the light went out. I think 15-40 at that temp. is about like trying to pump grease. I was more interested in how much the grids help. You are right, my motor thanks you. Jim
we had to jump my dad's 90 (converted to 91) without the grids working when it was about 10* out, it took several tries and MAN was the truck unhappy. Not something I would ever do just for the heck of it.
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