Jasonbailey

Ok, so I got a good look at the truck, even though it was night. I've got a really good flash light. Anyway, the brakes need to be bled (simple enough), he just put new pads/shoes on it. The steering has some play in it (I'm not sure how to fix it but I don't think it would be that difficult), the heater works but not the fan. It drives great, other than the steering having some play. The rust I found out was not as bad as I initialy thought. Some rust around the engine mount and near the front mounting point on the rear leaf springs, both on the drivers side. the body is very straight, a small ding on the passenger door and a small dent on the tailgate. The dash is cracked, I expected that though. Faded paint, very light surface rust in the bed. Absolutely no odd sounds from the engine. Slam the pedal and it goes. We didn't test the 4 wheel drive though. So what do you think? I'm sure it's not worth $4500.00 I was thinking closer to $3000.00 - $3500.00.

NJTman

¿Qué? Sin fotos?

Are you in the rust belt ? Filling out your profile might get you a little localized help with this.


Just curious...How do you know t's just bleeding ? The rear RWAL valve goes bad, as well as the computer. Not saying that it is, but it might get expensive if you're not sure. I had to replace everything, including hoses, steel lines, master, booster, etc. as the age of the truck required it. Now it stops great !

Steering play is relatively easy if it's the coupler that's bad. Otherwise, the Steering box / mounting bracket, drag link, tie rods, king pins, etc might be the real cause. You need to put a jack under the front axle, and see where the play is coming from. King pins can be loose but you won't know until you jack up at least one side and use a bar to move the tire upwards looking for play in the knuckle / KP joint. You can wiggle the tire side to side while another looks underneath to see where the looseness emits from.

Fan could be just a fuse, and I'd suggest pulling the fuse panel down and inspecting it. I didn't, and found a ton of issues in that panel, which i had to fix. Not a lot of money, but a lot of time.

Rust.... look at the front spring perches as well. Those rear spring perches are still available, although will cost you $100 each aftermarket, and if the fronts are bad, Jungle can help you out. Look at the front springs where the main leaf meets the lower leaves. Look for how much the lower leaf has cut into the main leaf or not. $800 to fix if you have a shop do it, as I've just found out myself.

Pull the trans dipstick and smell the fluid. If it smells burnt, you may be in for a large repair bill.


These CTD trucks are awesome, but make sure you know what you're looking at / getting into. Try to get back there during the day and snap photos of the undercarriage, spring mounts, engine bay, etc, so that others can comment.

Good luck and keep posting to let us know how it goes.


T.

lovemysan

"the brakes just need to be bled" is something I hear all to often on these trucks. My last case of "just bleeding the brakes" ended up replacing everything except the wheel cylinder. It was obvious whoever replaced my brakes last ignored the decomposed hardware which resulted in the pads dragging and destroying the drum($90 each).

Richie O

I agree. " bleed the brakes " is short for everything is junk. I have had plenty of times when a rusted brake line turned into " EVERYTHING " because the bleeders were rusted or broke off.

maybe368

Also, I think that rig qualifies for the pump replacement, check the thread about the unexpected wot...Mark