truck needs serious repairs-not sure what to do
truck needs serious repairs-not sure what to do
Ok, so friday my truck lost all power going uphill, I turned around, brought it to the dealer-diagnosis is not good: exhaust manifold is cracked in half, fuel transfer pump is bad, and the injector pump also needs replacing. There are two othe codes being thrown as well, but until the above items are fixed they do not know exactly what else needs fixing.
She is a 98 24 valve w/ 110k miles-and I am looking at at least 5k in repairs, likely more.
Is my best bet to sell her (if so-whats she worth, 3 or 4k?) or use her as a trade in towards something new? The downside to this is I can't afford a new dodge (can get one for 30k or so), but I could afford a new chevy, though I dont want one. Or is she worth fixing?
Any advice at all would be much appreciated.
-Liz
She is a 98 24 valve w/ 110k miles-and I am looking at at least 5k in repairs, likely more.
Is my best bet to sell her (if so-whats she worth, 3 or 4k?) or use her as a trade in towards something new? The downside to this is I can't afford a new dodge (can get one for 30k or so), but I could afford a new chevy, though I dont want one. Or is she worth fixing?
Any advice at all would be much appreciated.
-Liz
It sure would be nice to have an idea of what else might be wrong, or rather what the dealer thinks might be wrong.
First, you should look into having someone other than the dealer do the work, unless ytou really trust the dealer. I say this because 1. many dealers do not have people that actually know what they are doing on these Cummins engines, and 2. because the price they get for the parts is twice, or better, than what you can usually get them for at a Cummins dealer. Those two things will keep me away from a dealer if my truck breaks.
How is the rest of the truck? Is the tranny OK? Body? Interior?
If you like the truck and the rest of it is in good shape, the few thousand you'll put out on the repairs will be much cheaper than that new truck payment. Keep in mind that a new truck will come with its own set of problems over the long run.
You will be wise to add a fuel pressure gauge to it immediately after the repairs so you will know the next time the lift pump goes bad, before it cooks your injector pump, which is likely why it needs one now.
If you are still on the fence, check and see if you have a "53" block. If so, let it push on the "new truck"/"different truck" side of the fence. 53 Block Info
If you decide to keep it, a FASS II lift pump would be a better choice than the stock lift pump the dealer will install.
Chris
First, you should look into having someone other than the dealer do the work, unless ytou really trust the dealer. I say this because 1. many dealers do not have people that actually know what they are doing on these Cummins engines, and 2. because the price they get for the parts is twice, or better, than what you can usually get them for at a Cummins dealer. Those two things will keep me away from a dealer if my truck breaks.
How is the rest of the truck? Is the tranny OK? Body? Interior?
If you like the truck and the rest of it is in good shape, the few thousand you'll put out on the repairs will be much cheaper than that new truck payment. Keep in mind that a new truck will come with its own set of problems over the long run.
You will be wise to add a fuel pressure gauge to it immediately after the repairs so you will know the next time the lift pump goes bad, before it cooks your injector pump, which is likely why it needs one now.
If you are still on the fence, check and see if you have a "53" block. If so, let it push on the "new truck"/"different truck" side of the fence. 53 Block Info
If you decide to keep it, a FASS II lift pump would be a better choice than the stock lift pump the dealer will install.
Chris
everything else on the truck seems fine-they checked out and flushed the tranny and saw no problems there. I do trust the dealer (generally I dont, but this perticular one does goor work). Obviously repairing it at the moment is cheaper, my worry is that if I end up putting 5k+ (the dealer quoted me close to that so far) into it, that in a few years once I include any other repairs (I will need a new suspension soon) that it simply will not be worth it for me, this is where I can't make up my mind.
Any idea where I could price out the parts I need?
Any idea where I could price out the parts I need?
Hard decision....It's always a crap shoot. You might spend the 5k and go a long ways before something else is needed, or it could be the beginning of a nickle/dime streak that will seemingly bring you to your knees. If it's a 4x4 you most likely be spending some big $$ on a front end rebuild soon. On a 98 a dealer reman pump is most likely in the 1400 range, and the lift pump is wayyy to expensive. NAPA has the lift pump avail for much less and it works just fine (our parts department stocks the NAPA one). Exhaust manifold...you might find someone here with a used one, or you can buy an ATS manifold for about the same money. It looks to be a better design. If you're really bold and somewhat mechanically inclined you could try the install yourself....with a little help from dtr of course.
Can you post the codes?
Can you actually see the crack in the exhaust manifold yourself? If there was a crack big enough to be letting exhaust escape you could certainly hear it. The noise would range between a loud hissing sound to a pop/boom depending on the size of the crack. If it is just a hairline crack and not letting any exhaust escape then that would have nothing to do with your loss of power.
I'm with Stamey. I don't trust dealers. If you post your codes then the folks on this board can help determine if what the dealer is telling you is the truth.
The first two things I'd do right now (assuming the codes show a fuel problem) is replace the fuel filter and put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see if the lift pump is OK or not. If the lift pump is toast then I'd replace that and see if that solves your problem. If it doesn't solve your problem and the injection pump is shot then you've lost nothing since you will have to do those things anyway (assuming you decide to keep the truck).
Why do you need a new suspension? I could see new shocks as a possibility and those are very cheap and easy to replace. What's wrong with the rest? Did the dealer tell you that you need a bunch of new suspension parts?
Can you actually see the crack in the exhaust manifold yourself? If there was a crack big enough to be letting exhaust escape you could certainly hear it. The noise would range between a loud hissing sound to a pop/boom depending on the size of the crack. If it is just a hairline crack and not letting any exhaust escape then that would have nothing to do with your loss of power.
I'm with Stamey. I don't trust dealers. If you post your codes then the folks on this board can help determine if what the dealer is telling you is the truth.
The first two things I'd do right now (assuming the codes show a fuel problem) is replace the fuel filter and put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see if the lift pump is OK or not. If the lift pump is toast then I'd replace that and see if that solves your problem. If it doesn't solve your problem and the injection pump is shot then you've lost nothing since you will have to do those things anyway (assuming you decide to keep the truck).
Why do you need a new suspension? I could see new shocks as a possibility and those are very cheap and easy to replace. What's wrong with the rest? Did the dealer tell you that you need a bunch of new suspension parts?
Only thing I would recommend is if your manifold is cracked, somewhat common on a 24 valve, that you don't waste your money on an OEM manifold but rather spend a bit more money on an ATS three piece manifold.
It won't crack again.
It won't crack again.
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I have to ask if the only problems needing attention are the LP, IP, and exhaust manifold, how is that even coming close to $5k? Even if they nailed you $2K for the IP, that should not be more than $3200 tops for all repair. Take to someone who knows Cummins and the bill will be way more inline. I have a 98.5 and will not let it go , to me it is worth it to keep it running for a LONG time! Just my $0.02. Good luck, and let us know what happens.
Okay gentlemen let's analyse this a little better, this truck has only 110k miles with a cracked manifold that possibly was overheated to crack it. A fuel system in need of repair completely and then he says it going to need a new suspension but the rest of the truck is in good condition- history of this truck is either abuse or severe neglect or made from stolen parts. A lot of guy's here have more miles and work their trucks harder with a lot less problems than this unit- something is missing in this story. Perhaps a little more background on this truck would be useful to make a proper assessment. If the engine runs a blowby analysis should be done in order to assess the condition of the internal components along with an oil analysis for bearings and wear. PK
OK-as for history on the truck, I tow often with it on long hauls (200 to 2,000+ miles or so)-its been well maintained, I got her at 35k miles 2.5 years ago. (And yes, by susoension I meant shocks-I don't know a whole ton about trucks, just enough toget me by).
I would be willing to take her somewhere else for repairs; if its really going to be much cheaper then 5k-the prices the dealer gave me (rough since I dont have them in front of me) were 1100 for the manifold (all these are including install), 700 for the transfer pump and about 2,700 for the lift pump (install and wiring harness). I will call monday morning and get the codes from the dealer as well.
I just took a look at prices for a ATS manifold (595) and an FASS fuel pump (369), and assuming the IP is still about 2k, including install somewhere it still lands me around 4k to fix...
Plus the two other codes from the dealer-which I will get.
How about this-what is the max amount you would be willing to spend to fix her, and when would you decide to get a new one?
-Liz
I would be willing to take her somewhere else for repairs; if its really going to be much cheaper then 5k-the prices the dealer gave me (rough since I dont have them in front of me) were 1100 for the manifold (all these are including install), 700 for the transfer pump and about 2,700 for the lift pump (install and wiring harness). I will call monday morning and get the codes from the dealer as well.
I just took a look at prices for a ATS manifold (595) and an FASS fuel pump (369), and assuming the IP is still about 2k, including install somewhere it still lands me around 4k to fix...
Plus the two other codes from the dealer-which I will get.
How about this-what is the max amount you would be willing to spend to fix her, and when would you decide to get a new one?
-Liz
WoW, right off the bat you can get the LP and install for closer to half of what they have quoted you. The Injection Pump should only be around $1,300 (not sure on the install price of that one, looks like a PITA though).
My LP and IP took a dump on Wednesday (67K miles) I got P1693 and 0216 codes. (injection pump timing failure)
At 105K miles, I would ignore the suspension: throw on some new shocks, and a steering stabilizer, that'll mask the rest of the issues for a while longer. Not sure on the manifold, is it considered part of your mechanical failure, or just a broken part that needs addressed (eventually). These engines are supposed to keep going for quite a while, if you don't fix it at 105K miles, someone else will (and with murphys law the way it is), they will still be rolling at 500K on the clock. This is not a "wholesaleable vehicle", it still has some life and real value, unless it has really been beaten hard.
My LP and IP took a dump on Wednesday (67K miles) I got P1693 and 0216 codes. (injection pump timing failure)
At 105K miles, I would ignore the suspension: throw on some new shocks, and a steering stabilizer, that'll mask the rest of the issues for a while longer. Not sure on the manifold, is it considered part of your mechanical failure, or just a broken part that needs addressed (eventually). These engines are supposed to keep going for quite a while, if you don't fix it at 105K miles, someone else will (and with murphys law the way it is), they will still be rolling at 500K on the clock. This is not a "wholesaleable vehicle", it still has some life and real value, unless it has really been beaten hard.
Liz , I would pull it from that dealer , check with the Cummins in Sparks, if that is closer. or the one in Sacto, you will get a better price , and you can join the Power Booster Club and get another 10% off the bill. I would also get the aftermarket exh. manifold and have them install it . I understand you can get the lift pump nowadays from Napa auto parts for a good price also.... you could also talk to Greg at Valley Injection in Woodland CA they are a Bosch certified and get a VP44 from them for a good price also and have it installed at Cummins. if you call Cummins in Sacto 916-371-0630 ask for Scott and he can quote you a pricing for what you need done over the phone. I think you will be surprise at what your cost would be for that job. and you will have a one year warranty all parts and labor.
So I found out what we needed to know, you are scared of the truck based on old style thinking to throw away vehicles at 100,000k. Read through the forums and articles and you will realize the majority of them are just getting broken in at this point. A lot of your problems could be the need for some updating info and parts for towing. A 3 piece ATS manifold can handle the heat stress a lot better for extended towing temps and hot shut downs, a pyrometer to monitor the hot shutdowns (idle engine 3-5 minutes before shutdown after highway or towing 3-400F Max. EGT). This may be part of the manifold problems, the fuel system is also running hotter possibly and needs to be updated for better fuel pressure and cool fuel circulation. Shocks are a standard maintainance item at 100k, $30,000 vs $5000 a cost you can afford a new truck you can't. Access the info offered here and help has already come your way, use and appreciate the education and hospitality and you will find your truck is still a good vehicle for many miles. PK



. There is no way I would let a dealer fix a vehicle that is out of warranty- they charge waaaaaay toooooo much!.
