Alright, I am going to try and fix her-while I'm at it, aside from the aftermarket manifold/fuel pump, should I be looking at other parts that tend to break (not sure what they would be)? I had always thought these things lasted at least 500k, but then yes-once I got the call from the dealer, I got worried that other stuff was going to break and it was just going to be a lin of expenses when I really need a truck I can rely on.

johnCA58-Sparks is definitly much closer to me, and the truck would not be able to make it to Sac right now (cna barely go up a hill, and Sac is 250 miles away from carson city).

Thanks for the advice-now to find a way to take out a loan to fix her.

 

Good for you , but Carson to Sacto is only 130 miles on hiway 50. good luck to you.

 

The ATS manifold is the best bet, if you need a manifold. You could probably get a used one (www.car-part.com), but it will crack eventually. This is just a thing with very long cast iron, subject to so much heat. I have seen many straight-6 manifolds crack, not just the Cummins. The ATS is a 3 piece manifold and each piece can expand and contract separately, which drastically reduces the likelyhood of it ever cracking.
In the event you need to wait on this one, welding or brazing will keep you going for a little while (this really is a temporary fix).

The FASS is the best bet on the lift pump because it is mounted near the fuel tank, where all electric pumps need to be (most are in the fuel tank).

As far as the injector pump, if needed, you could try Cumminsstuff.com, as they have the best price I have seen on a VP44 injector pump. Hopefully they will have one to fit your truck.

Chris

 

oops, meant to say 150, not 250.
Anyways, here are the codes from the dealer, the two which persist after the codes have been cleared, and they didnt tell me what they were are:
P0380
P0381
the rest are:
P0230
P0216
P0181

it's the first two I am most worried about in the sense of causing additional high repair bills-so any input on them would be great. In the meantime, I am caling Cummins in Sparks.

Thanks again!!!!!

 

Ok, just got off the phone with Cummins, they said the two pumps will run around 2,500-3k; and the exhaust manifold 800-1k; so a bit cheaper then the dealer, but not by much. I asked them about installing an ATS manifold, but they wont install anything other then cummins parts-however the dealer would (they just would not warrenty it, which I expected). And at this point, I think if I buy the items myself it would be cheaper overall to get it done at the dealer

Now to go take out a loan.

 

Here ya go!
From ALLDATA

PO380- Intake air heater relay-either need a new grid heater or just a relay
PO381- Wait to start lamp inoperative- bulb must be burnt out

PO230- transfer pump circuit out of range
PO216- Injection pump timing failure
PO181 Injection pump failure

I would buy the lift pump at NAPA for under $200, it's the same as the dealer or cummins.

 

Hmm, my wait to start light has been operating fine-but even if i need a new bulb that cant be a whole lot. Any idea how much a grid heater runs, and if they tend to brake? Trying to plan for the worst here-thanks.

 

The grid heaters themselves rarely go out but sometimes the relay(s) do.
A Ford starter relay from any auto parts works excellent and can be had for under $10

 

I can look into the WTS light code on Alldata at work tomorrow and see what it says. That is a weird one to say the least.

I believe the 380 was relay #1 failure, I will double check too. It can be found in the black box along the fender on the drivers side.

 

My new lift pump from Cummins was ~162.00. I got a discount by joining the Cummins Power club (free) and talking with the guy for awhile. Wound up basically getting my oil and fuel filter for free. My local NAPA listed the lift pump for $270. I think they got tired of warrantying the pumps, so jacked the price. Installation was actually pretty easy, and saved myself a lot of money. GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. Yes, I shouted that last bit, but that is probably the best piece of advice I got through this forum. Saved my Injection pump -- I drove maybe 20 miles on my low pressure, limping home to the tools. Truck didn't run any different, so I could have easily run my truck for several days until the IP toasted. For your Manifold, I suggest getting the ATS as I have not heard anything bad about them. If you are going to continue towing a lot, I recommend a Pyrometer mounted pre-turbo to help monitor the fire. Good luck with the repairs......

 

Well I do not intend to sound rude here but I would get a set of wrenches and learn to apply them.....the above advise all is good,,like said get the thing to real shop,,I have never herd od a dodge dealer that actually new anything....was replace and hope......
the pums are ez to replace,exhust ez,, front axle??? whats the story there??

 

I have a 99 with 143k on it...front end is good, my vp has just gone out, i dont know why the dealer is telling you so much on a lift pump, i have replaced mine from a truck shop...$150.00 and i did it myself, called them this morning, 1199 for a Bosch VP 44 plus 3 hrs install, check around on them prices...

 

Replace your lift pump with Carter Lift Pump from Summit Racing, or Napa.

Then try to start your truck. Sometimes a Dead Lift pump will mess with your injection pump, and set some death codes.

Here at the shop, I replace Injection pumps for $1,500 out the door, once the injection pump is off, the lift pump is a freakin' snap to change out, you should only be charged 1 hour more, TOPS, anymore, and they are just making serious $$ off of you.

The Exhaust manifold will be expensive anywhere you go, even used ones easily go over $150.

For $500 or so, get the 3-piece ATS manifold. It is worth every dime you spend on it.

That's how I'd go about this.

Keep your truck, unless you can easily afford another truck.

That's my $.02

Merrick