Ok, I have a dually, hich is my first dually and my first one ton. The rear brakes started making a grinding sound recently, and now I wanna do the rear brake job. Done it on several cars, but never a one ton dually. What do I need to know? what will make it easier? Some guy mentioned (at a shop) pulling the AXLE? Is that something that possibly needs to be done, or is it more that everything is bigger and stuff? I will take a picture bfore for the spring placement and such, but is there anything else (tips wise) that you guys can offer?

James

 

OK, here's the drill:

Jack up one side and take the wheels off. Loosen the 10 nuts from the axle about half way off so as to protect the threads of the hub. Get a BIG hammer and strike the edge of the axle to get it loose from the hub. Try not to hit the nuts or you could bend the studs. Once you have the axle loose take off the nuts and slide the axle completely out and set it aside.

There is a small clip which locks the nut on the hollow spindle. Pull the pin and get a big socket to remove the nut. Once you have the nut out you should be able to slide the hub off. Be careful it's very heavy and will mash fingers and toes.

You should have the drum checked for oversize grooves etc... Assuming the drum is OK the shoes are only about $20-30 for a set. Be sure you get the proper width. Also check the cylinder for leaks or better yet replace it completely and flush bleed the system. You should probably replace the grease seal also.

When you reassemble the big bearing nut must be preloaded but I'm not sure by how much. Either 125 or 185 ft/lb. then loosen back part of a turn. Somebody else should chime in with these exact numbers. If I wasn't so lazy I'd look it up for you.

The axle nuts get about 60 ft/lb. I think and the lug nuts get 125 ft/lb.

Be sure all the innards are clean and lightly lube the self adjuster cable and the adjuster itself. You should hand adjust with the proper tool through the slot in the back plate until the shoes lightly drag then drive it around the block and tweak them down again if necessary.

Oh, and do the other side also.

Edwin

 

120-140 ft lbs, then loosen 120 degrees. Just replaced a seal back there, so the detals are still fresh.
- Chris

 

Forgot one detail: spin the wheel while tightening, which means you'll need to jack up both rear wheels, or leave the tranny or t-case in neutral (with chocked wheels).
- Chris

 

You must greese the bearings before you put it back to gether or thay will burnup long before the axle lube gets there. and if that happens is usaly regires that the hole rear end to be replace due to spindal geting distroyed!!!

Speeking from porsonal expereance!!!

 

Hey here is what I did instead of greasing the bearings.
I filled the rear up as far as I could get it, then park it on a hillside so that the fluid can drain to that side. Park it on level ground and fill the rear up again, then do the same for the other side. I did this until the fluid level no longer changed. Did I do it okay or did I mess something up?
Thanks,
Wheelo

 

As long as the fluid is 1/2" to 3/8" below the fill hole you will be fine. Filling until the fluid is running out the hole is actually overfilled, and very often the extra fluid will make its way into the brake drums.

Like Flash said, it's simpler just to smear some grease on 'em befrore you bolt it all back together.

 

Or if you forget to grease 'em like I did, just jack up the other wheel for a little while.
- Chris