727 to 518 swap and prices
727 to 518 swap and prices
I would like some opinions on fair prices for the parts for a swap.
1) trans is a 1992 4wd 518 w/120k miles
2) both drive shafts
3) torque converter
4) od control box (where is it and what's it look like?)
I am going to go through the trans before I reinstall it.
I do mostly highway driving and may occasionally tow a car.
Do in need the cross member?
Do I need the engine adapter?
Depending on the outcome of the thread on aftermarket TQ's, I will probably upgrade that item.
I apologize as I'm sure this has been covered numerous times, however I did do a search and must have missed it.
Thanks
Ed
1) trans is a 1992 4wd 518 w/120k miles
2) both drive shafts
3) torque converter
4) od control box (where is it and what's it look like?)
I am going to go through the trans before I reinstall it.
I do mostly highway driving and may occasionally tow a car.
Do in need the cross member?
Do I need the engine adapter?
Depending on the outcome of the thread on aftermarket TQ's, I will probably upgrade that item.
I apologize as I'm sure this has been covered numerous times, however I did do a search and must have missed it.
Thanks
Ed
The OD is controlled by the PCM. There is no stand alone box. I took out a getrag 5 speed and replaced it with a 518 on a 93 D350. The engine adapter is the same on a 93 5 speed truck as the automatic. You will have to get a computer(PCM) from an automatuc truck if you want to have the OD contolled fully automatically, but I use a momentary toggle switch mounted on my floor shifter(like a 2 speed axle switch in a heavy duty truck), and wire it through 3 relays so when I step on the brake pedal it kicks out OD. I would like mine to be fully automatic, but myself and everybody else I talk to always agree that the computer will never kick OD in or out exactly when you want it to. Mine only kicks in when I want, at exactly the time I want, and stays in until I tell it to kick out. I like it like that way! Ihave 100% control of my OD.
I now have a 47RH in my truck and I also control my lockup the same way I control my OD. I now use a double toggle switch(momentary) to control both in the same switch. I can give you the wiring diagram to wire the relays to make it work if you choose to go that route.
Take a look in the sticky, there's a thread in there about using an oil pressure switch in the governor pressure test port to run the OD. Seems like the simplest way to run it on a truck with no PCM.
I agree....I am much happier with my 47RH than I was with the 518. I like the way I am controlling my OD and Lockup because I can lockup in any gear with the modified valve body. One of the nice things about the way I can control it is for example I can go up a hill at say 35mph in lower gear with the TC locked up and this reduces any TC slipping thus reducing tranny temps.
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Scottmn1
I would like a wiring diagram for the transmission controls please.
Thanks,
Mike
M723245@wmconnect.com
I would like a wiring diagram for the transmission controls please.
Thanks,
Mike
M723245@wmconnect.com
47rh
archer2,
Go with the 47rh tranny. I got a good HD rebuild, with a tripple disc converter fro $2400. I got the engine adapter off e-bay for $40, and a the starter. I am going to run both the over drive, and lock uo off two toggles. So far I have less than $3000, including a DD magtec pan, and 2 heavy duty coolers witch will be mounted under the bed. All I will have to do is modifie the cross members, and maybe shorten the rear drive line. Then mess with the front one as well. Its going to be all worth it in the end! Just got to let this back heal up, fix the new 98 case housing and I will tackle the tranny change.
Bob.
Go with the 47rh tranny. I got a good HD rebuild, with a tripple disc converter fro $2400. I got the engine adapter off e-bay for $40, and a the starter. I am going to run both the over drive, and lock uo off two toggles. So far I have less than $3000, including a DD magtec pan, and 2 heavy duty coolers witch will be mounted under the bed. All I will have to do is modifie the cross members, and maybe shorten the rear drive line. Then mess with the front one as well. Its going to be all worth it in the end! Just got to let this back heal up, fix the new 98 case housing and I will tackle the tranny change.
Bob.
Thanks for all the replies, I'm guessing the 518 deal would be cheaper due in part the TQ.
What is a fair price to pay for a used 47rh and a 518?
Rebuilding is not a problem so I would actually prefer used but I am not finding much locally.
What is a fair price to pay for a used 47rh and a 518?
Rebuilding is not a problem so I would actually prefer used but I am not finding much locally.
I've never bought a 518, but I bought a 47RE for $300 from a member here a while ago, and nothing wrong with it either, all the clutches looked excellent. And the 47RH I bought with the bell housing adapter, flexplate, transfer case, I paid $900 for and that was a bargain. Never cracked it open and it lasted about 14,000 miles before the converter clutch gave up.
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