oliver foster

Why auto you ask?

I could put any combination of Cummins parts in it.
I have several 12Vs I could choose to install in this RC. Non inter cooled VE 12Vs, inter cooled VE 12Vs, p-pumped 12V motors, even a 215HP P-pumped in my shop to choose from.
I have a 727, 47RH and a Getrag set up in 2wd to choose from.
I have 3.07, 3.54 and 4.10 geared rear axles to choose from.
I have never owned a 12V auto truck that I put much road mileage on. Every thing I own is or has been converted to a manual.
People talk about how modified autos shift without loosing boost and they are faster than rowing through the gears. I still would not want an auto for my DD or work / towing trucks I use for work, but I am interested to see what a little hod rod style built 12V rig would be like. I am looking for something that shifts hard, yet is fairly easy to drive. If I don't like it I will swap it over to manual like I have done many times before.

Right now I am heavily leaning toward that built 47 RH, a Non I/Ced 12V that I will turn up and a 3.54 geared Dana 70 with LSD. Low slung with big puffy rear tires.
I am hoping for something I can drive around like my old Mopar muscle car, with the top off.

oliver foster

I am thinking with the built transmission that I have receipts on a $6500 rebuilt a little over a year and 10,000 no towing miles ago, I should be able to build a light weight, 2wd drive RC that will not tow, with power to spare and still have the auto hold up. I am picturing a point and shoot rig then deal with steering input and no shifting.
Basically I am recreating my old '70 440/727 Challenger, I had 20 years ago, but with a diesel motor and RC sheetmetal. '70 Challengers are super expensive.
That is the basic build direction I have in my head so far...
I will see what rolls out the shop and WHEN it rolls out...

edwinsmith

You couldn't find a Jaguar body to put it in eh!

oliver foster

Jags are more like the stuff my dad likes to drive.
I am Mopar or no car.

bigragu

Oliver, what's your knowledge on 69 Chargers? Are those about as rare as our steering gear brackets, or can they be had for a decent price? Curious to know what those things are running $$ wise for refurbished, but not showroom quality. Just street driven quality. Just like your making that ramcharger.

oliver foster

The popular muscle cars are pretty big $. Those style Chargers are extra popular because of the Dukes of Hazard fans
If I wanted a '68/'69 Charger, I would go to the Mopar show in Carlisle with $15,000 / $20,000 and search the car corral.
Every year I see a couple good buys there. The kinda of deal where the car is selling for $20,000 say, but there is NO way you could buy a $6,000 rough car and make it into that nice of a ride for less cash.
Muscle car parts and pieces add up quick.

bigragu

Reason I inquired about that year charger, is back in high school, a very good friend of mine who also happened to by my catcher, owned one in two tone. All gold body with a black top. That thing was so sweet. I only hung out with him during baseball season, as myself and a couple others used to hitch rides with him on our away baseball games( hardly any of us had our own cars)
Man, that car used to turn heads. The rear was lifted, he had the big wide tires, all that.
I ended up sharing an apartment with him after high school. Never knew what happened to it, and he was driving a 69 Fiat instead. We parted our own ways after college, and I've never seen him again. Still dream about his car, though. If I ever decide to buy a gasser, that would be the one.

thrashingcows

I had a 69 Charger for a couple years many years ago. Someone had painted it...you bet Duke's of Hazards orange. Originally it was a white car with a green vinyl top and green and black tu-tone interior, 383/auto car. Oliver is right they are a very popular body style, and to get a decent driver quality car will cost you a bit.

Not sure if they are reproducing the bodies for the chargers? I know you can get pretty much every other panel through the after market...fenders, door, hoods, full floors and trucks, quarters etc. Be sweet if there was a company selling fully assembled "new" bodies....then you would need to install your own power train and be good to go.

bigragu

Just saw a few on eBay for bid. Holy Camole, those things are pricey! Even the plane Jane, in need of refurbishing, are up there in dollars!

Saw a guy from Florida on there selling one that fully resembled the General Lee. Down to the tee. He had pics of his collection of cars in the garage. Cars stacked on top of each other, wall to wall mint condition.

Wouldn't that be awesome, to have a mint collection of 12 valve trucks for each model year, from 89-99, stacked on top of each other, all rust free, mint, shine all over? Probably gotta have a ramcharger or two in there, also. All of them in the first gens sporting the ram head hood emblem? I want to say each and everyone of them hopped up, but then where does that end? From simple pump tweaks, or to an all out triple turbo's BC847 truck? So, to keep it simple, all at stock factory power settings. And the engine bays have to be all mint, too. I have to say, and some of you will agree, there's nothing like a mint engine compartment in a first gen.
Oh, yeah, a single cab dually in one of the first gens is a must!

Sorry for sharing my dream all over your tread, Oliver.

Angry Johnny

Well if it's just going to be a hot rod truck there is always this full manual 1,2,3,4 valve body. Uses no solenoid for 4th just for the lockup and reverse/trans brake.
500 518 618 TRANS-BRAKE VALVE BODY lock up | Cope Racing

bigragu

AJ, if you don't mind, can you explain what a full manual tranny is, as opposed to the everyday automatic tranny that on our trucks? I recently have been reading about full manual valve bodies, but have not the slightest idea of the concept. Maybe others here as me, lol, can benefit from your explanation.

Also, what are the pros and cons of having full manual over the other?

Angry Johnny

Well a full manual valve body means just that, you have to shift it yourself. What ever gear you put it in that's the gear it's going in.

This particular unit uses the reverse position for neutral so you can get the four forward speeds manually selected. To get reverse you have to activate the trans brake solenoid.

The trans brake locks the trans in 1st and reverse when the button is pushed activating the solenoid. It will only work in 1st gear. This allows you to bring the RPM's up and build boost before launching the truck without having to use the foot brakes to hold the truck still. They work really well. I have a trans brake in my race car. I roll up to the line, light the first and second stage bulbs, push the button and mat the loud pedal. On the last yellow I let the button go and the car launches wheels up and it's on it's way to another 9 second pass.

bigragu

Mind sharing what that race car is?

Blue Goose

I bough my '68 Charger R/T 440 4 speed in '84 for $400 and drove it home, kept it for 18 years. Now $6000 might get you a rusted to death parts car.

Angry Johnny

It's a tube chassis, strut front end, 4 link rear suspension 71 Scamp. 408 small block Mopar with a 904 and 8.75 rear.