oliver foster

Well I have been watching P-pumped 12V tuning videos, and reading articles on fuel plate / AFC tuning ETC lately.
I am pretty up to speed with tuning a VE pump to run like I want, but have much less time tuning the P-pump.

I pulled the AFC housing on the donor motor and found no fuel plate, and a gutted AFC housing. That explains the black out cloud style tune that was on the motor when I drove the donor truck!
Well that is not the style I am going for on my build.

I pulled another [complete] AFC housing off a spare P-pumped 12V motor. The same motor that is donating its Banks Twin Ram intake horn set up.
After disassembling and cleaning the AFC housing up, the stiffer of the two AFC spring that TST offers in its AFC spring kit was installed into it. The lighter TST AFC spring is on my mildly tuned '95 dually tow rig. The heavier spring AFC was a left over I wanted to use.
An unused #100 fuel plate that has been on the shop shelf for years, will be installed as well. The #100 plate fuels strong, but not as strong as NO fuel plate.
The AFC spring should be able to control the smoke from the fuel plate...or at least that is the idea..

During the holiday I hope to mostly dial in the motor for install.
A 24V turbo with a spring waste gate, and a KDP job with a fresh front main seal is on the top of the list.
The special Banks intake horn gasket kit will need to be ordered to get that installed, so that will have to wait.

oliver foster

Last night, installing the 24V turbo on a 12V showed off a few issues, I either didn't see coming or had forgotten about.

Drilling out the top two threaded studs holes on the turbo flange so it slid over the studs coming out of the exhaust manifold, sounded familiar when I got there.
The different waste gate style hitting the heater exchanger cooling lines coming from the front of the motor was not something I saw coming.
It is the first time really building an auto powered Cummins project for myself. I am really a stick shift sort of guy normally.

It looks like slightly modifying the middle bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold that keeps the line in place and adding a slight bend in the line itself should get me enough clearance room. If not I will grind of the corner of the aluminum waste gate bracket as the final bit of massaging for a perfect fit.

I prepped the HX-35 with the discontinued spring gate I had left over and removed the later style down pipe flange for the earlier style. I couldn't find a new metal gasket for the down pipe flange in my collection, so I will order a couple after Christmas.

Earlier in the day, I got the injection pump all button back up with the #100 fuel plate set all the way forward for max fuel. I also set the AFC housing in the fully forward setting for max fuel. I offset this with the stiff AFC spring that should slow down the onset of full fueling to help control smoke. I also backed off the smoke screw till it barely touched.

After my daughter and I hike out into the woods and cut down our Christmas tree and wrap up out presents I should have some time tonight to modify things to get that turbo mounted up.

NJTman

Sounds fun, Ollie. Glad your getting to things on your long awaited list. Amazing what a dead phone line can do for you at Christmas.

Give the big dogs hugs and kisses from us, and Charlotte a scratch behind the ear.

oliver foster

The 24V turbo is all fitted up with plenty of clearance for the heat exchanger, oil turbo feed line and the spring waste gate.

I put a small bend in the hard line to the heat exchanger by modifying it between some wooden blocks and tapping the metal line with spare metal heater core hold down / bracket and a hammer. The heater core bracket had the proper radius in it so I didn't kink the line. I only bent the line a strong 1/2 inch to not risk the integrity of the metal line. The corner of waste gate bracket was then filed down 3/16th of and inch to make sure there will not be any interference. The heater core line was also shifted back 1/2 to increase clearance all around.
A few fresh gaskets and it was a beautiful thing.

I was installing the turbo drain line and I didn't like the looks of the flexible coupler clamped at the base of it. It ended up being used heater hose that was oil soaked and rotten. I bet that was the source of the minor leak the donor truck had. I grabbed a nice OEM 1st gen turbo drain coupler and clamped it on.
Glad to catch that as it could have become a major leak on the road!

Pulled the oil filter off and checked all the 10 MM bolts that hold the oil filter / oil cooler housing on. I have found these really like to loosen up over the years. This 12V was no different. ALL the bolts tighten up at least 1/4 of a turn easily . The gasket was not leaking at all but with all the bolts a little loose it was going to happen...

NJTman

Eh... I've never checked those bolts. Next Earl change I'll be looking for those bolts to tighten up.

oliver foster

I have found that those bolts loosen up and cause the oil filter housing to leak antifreeze from the block on a bunch of the old 12Vs.
Poncho [my 91.0] sprang a small leak there 3 summers ago so I pulled and cleaned everything up and re installed with fresh gaskets. When I pulled the oil filter housing I was surprised how all the bolts where not much more than hand tight!
Since then I have had oil filter housings spring leaks on two other Dodges [a '92 D-250 and my '95 dually] I own, and I bet they both have loose bolts.

Worth checking, especially if you can catch it BEFORE it leaks when you should really take it all apart, clean everything up and re gasket it all.
I am going to start checking / re-torquing those bolts on all my old 12Vs, when I have the oil filter off

edwinsmith

In Okiehoma we call it "ahl".

oliver foster

I had a bit of time after dinner to work on my motor.
Well I was just minding my own business and taking the fan hub and the harmonic balancer off to get ready to pull the front timing cover to do the KDP, when I saw a 8 MM headed bolt holding the water pump on...
What the ...?! Well I pulled the small bolt which was held on with a 1/8 tube of RTV slathered all around the water pump.
Under it I found a broken off bolt in the block that had been drilled and badly tapped for a 8 MM bolt that barely held the water pump on.

Not cool. The 1/4 inch reverse drill bit came out in an attempt to get the remainder of the broken bolt out. Then the tap kit, some picks and lots of oil. After a tense 1/2 - 1 HR of trying to sneak the last of that bolt out, I got it cleaned up and ready to accept the proper 13MM bolt the water pump should have to hold it to the block.

After that I had a cold beer and called it a night. Sometimes a simple job turns into a unseen carp show.

It was the time to do it while I had lots of room, with the motor on the shop floor not in a cramped engine bay on the side of the road with a leaking water pump.

NJTman

Nice catch, Ollie. Lucky not enough damage to the block, whereas you couldn't fix it..

Merry Christmas ..from the luck God's.

Alec

Nothing like a little Christmas "Easter Egg" from the previous owner, eh?

It's funny, years and years ago there was a guy up north who was having trouble with that bolt. It seemed that when the temperature dropped enough (as in negative teens) that bolt would break on him, he'd replaced it a number of times, it had lasted over the summer, and then started failing again when it got cold. Maybe there isn't quite enough margin of safety in the design load for that bolt . . . Have you seen many engines with that failure?

Regardless, good job getting the broken bolt out and saving the situation.

oliver foster

Alec, I have not seen a broken off water pump bolt before on the 12Vs. I was glad to get it cleaned up as it could have been a real problem.
I thought it might be from a guy using an impact wrench installing the replacement water pump.

Today my daughter helped me set the valve lash on the motor. I assume it was the first time it was done and with 220,xxx on the clock. It needed very little adjustment to get it spot on.
Most needed a little bit of tightening, two of the intake valves where right on, where they where, and one needed a tiny bit of extra slack.
We then cleaned up the Banks Twin Ram intake horn, grid heater units and intake plate. I gutted the heater grids as they will never be needed on a topless RC.

I used some left over old school chrome valve covers I had in the shop to add some bling to the motor without spending a dime. Fresh gaskets where used under the bling valve covers.

It was a really great time in the shop wrenching with my daughter.
We took our time and made it awesome. No rush, no time clock just doing it right regardless of the work to make it happen.

NJTman

Happy New year

oliver foster

Thanks T-man!
Those pictures are several months old, but they show the welding work on the floorboards.
Along with the Evaporust treatment and priming and painting with rattle can paint bombs.

I thought a few pictures might spice this thread up...

KRB

You like the Evapo-rust? How long you been using it?

oliver foster

I used the Evaporust product 3 years ago on Ponchos floorboard for the first time. The wet jute padding was starting to rust the floorboard on an otherwise rust free cab. I poured it on, soaked a few paper towels down and then covered it up with plastic bags so it would not dry off.
I added fresh liquid straight from the jug and changed out the paper a few times over a day or so. Then washed it down with fresh water, dried it up and hit it with some white primer and paint out of a rattle can.

I like the fact that it is non toxic and easy to clean up with water.
The best use I have found for it is dropping in nuts / bolts and small brackets to clean up in a jar of it. I cleaned up a lot of the fasteners for the Gauntlet RC project that way. They come out like brand new.

All those floorboard panels where welding in with rod and that mini OXY. / Act. torch I picked up on Carlisle last summer.