I found a 99 3500hd unit.

I think that monster maybe a snowball. it's a 40mm piston I'm only using 7/8 wheel cyl. & 2 1/2 '' shoes.

 

The puller worked great. Just work back and forth tightening one nut then the other.

 

SWEEEET!

I didn't know what you where up to with the custom welded unit yesterday.

 

I am pretty sneaky

I am really happy with the way it worked.
I ordered an adjustable push rod from here. hopefully I got the measurement right.

Brake Pedal Rods & Ends : Tallon Hydraulics, Your Machine Shop!

 

everything went so well this morning that I decided to do some more.
So I did a stack of spot welds and filed them to make the locating key in my hydoboost mounting plate.

 

My HB is off hold. Its back to sitting on the back burner.

Found a HB & master on 2000 3500 chevy express.

 

Ready when your done.

 

So why did you weld the secondary plate to the bottom of the puller? Just wanted a thicker mounting point to push against?

That looks like it worked slick...guess I know what I will be building next. And I too was considering ordering the adjustable rods and end from Tallon. So what size did you go with?

And your weld and file job for the location key looks like it was always there...again well done!

 

Hey Mark,

It seems as though that puller worked great. Too bad you hadn't blazed the trail when I was working on my conversion.

The mounting plate looks great, too. Ready for paint.

Back to those lines, though. If it were me: The reverse box uses a 3/8 SAE flare with an odd-ball flare nut for the inlet. In a perfect world, I would get a piece of (stainless?) 3/8 tubing, the correct flare nut, and the JIC braze-on male adapter that you found. I would make a short "Z" adapter that came out of the pump and up over the frame rail using these parts, and consider this a permanent part that will last the life of the truck. If you are super paranoid about the longevity of the tubing, make two, and throw the spare under the seat -- it would be pretty small. It just seems to me that the adapters will last forever, and a custom JIC line will be available long after a pre-made line for a 1976 vehicle.

 

Stainless would be nice. I had planned on the Aeroquip JIC reusable fittings and 2000 psi hose for the pressure lines on mine. I mentioned a pre-made hose for the guys that are afraid of the non stock stuff.
Personally I would be more comfortable with the JIC/AN than stock hose.

At the end of the day there is no way around the "custom" hose on the steering gear. The short tube with the braze on male JIC is the best way to go IMHO.

I will have to have a look around here I am pretty sure I have one of those 3/8" tube 11/16-18flare nuts.

Thanks Alec,

 

Thanks Brian,
The plate on the bottom has a Bigger hole to locate the base of the puller on the push rod socket. Without a milling machine that was the easiest way to get a flat bottomed hole.

On the Tallon push rod I ordered the 3" and this end
THI 102(A) - .625 Brake Pedal Rod Adapter [THI 102(A)] - $15.00 : Tallon Hydraulics, Your Machine Shop!

We shall see of I made the right decision.

 

AHH...I see now. Had not thought of having the larger bore on the bottom as a locator/stabilizer. Again a very well thought out design Mark.

 

Thanks Brian,
When I was in machine work designing and making fixtures and tooling to rebuild our products was my favorite thing to do.

 

Thanks for doing all the R&D for the HB for me!! Looks great! I looked at converting to a 2nd gen HB unit but it looked like there would be clearance problems with the intake pipe. The GM unit looked like an all around easier conversion. In my experience EVERYONE stocks GM parts. Not so with Dodge.
My plan was to build a block or bracket to locate the HB unit out from the firewall so that the pushrod was in the correct location relative to the brake pedal height. That way I can get standard parts at any parts store if needed.

 

Yeah the GM is the way to go in my opinion. Bobva is also doing some experimenting with hoses and some mastercylinder swapping.

I really haven't done that much. Alec posted the dimensions for the mounting plate And provided info and pictures from his swap. That is the first place that I noticed the GM master cylinder is a direct bolt on for the brake lines. Thanks Alec.

All I did is made a pushrod puller and did some parts chasing.Mostly AN/JIC for the Reverse rotation steering gear that throws a curve into a pretty easy swap.
I will post up links up to the adapters, hose and ends I plan on using later.