Aaaahhh gotchya. Can't argue with that! The friction modifiers though - they shouldn't harm anything. ATF is designed to run not only in Automatics, but also in manual transmissions, power steering systems, FWD differentials, hydraulic and hydrostatic systems. It's ok with piston, gear, and vein pumps, valves and all the other parts. Those modifiers are supposed to only interact with the clutch materials.

 

the point is just what is making it so nasty when it is burnt????
as to comparing a fuel system to a transmission you are WAY off base. NONE of these use as small of an orifice or tolerance and NONE has the final out come of it being burnt. heck you could use water to drive a hydrostatic drive if it was not for the lack of lube and rust. last but not least is your last part


that is where the problem lies.

 

Ok, if you want to argue that burning ATF isn't green, nobody's going to argue with that. However, because it doesn't burn green doesn't mean it's going to harm or destroy your engine. Ever look at the MSDS on your favorite "proper" fuel suppliment? Here's one for Stanadyne's Lubricity formula:
http://www.stanadyne.com/docs/pubm/L...20-%203.10.pdf
Doesn't exactly burn into a bouquet of roses does it? Also notice the health effects - sounds like some pretty dangerous stuff. ATF's MSDS says pretty much the only thing that will really harm you is if you get it injected into your skin. (Outside of burning it of course)

First of all, I haven't compared the fuel system to a transmission.
Second, I agree with the orifice idea, although anything that gets through your fuel filter is going to get rammed through those orifices or damage your fuel system. This could be water, dirt, metal, you name it. ATF has no problem flowing through your fuel filter. According to one MSDS: http://www.terryselectric.com/pdf/de...II-chevron.pdf, ATF's viscosity is 6.8 Centistokes at 100C. #2 Diesel's viscosity is 2-6 centistokes at the same 100c - http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ki...ity-d_397.html. So yes, ATF is slightly thicker. However, at half a liter to a tank, it's such a small amount being injected that it will never bother your orifices. You should be more worried contaminants. As far as the tolerance issue - The tolerances in your p-pump and injectors are no different than that of say a Sundstrand Axial Piston Pump and valves seen in hydrostatic systems all over. All high pressure pumps and valves seal their high pressure areas with super close metal to metal tolerances.

ATF is rated to run in much more than your automatic transmission as seen here:http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-Eng...ex_III_Mer.pdf
It's recommended to be used in Manual transmissions, power steering systems, differentials, hydrostatic/hydraulic systems, gear, piston, vane pumps etc. etc. etc. Most people don't know that. The friction modifiers in ATF are designed to work just fine in your p-pump and injectors. The proof is in the pudding - all those other systems aren't bothered by the friction modifiers your so scared of. I have a '92 Dodge Colt with a 5-spd standard. Recommended trans oil is gear oil, but I've been running ATF in there for years (thinner when it gets cold). It works fine even though the manufacturer recommends something else. Ask BOSCH what they think of modern day diesel fuel and they'll probably tell you it's wrecking your pump!

"The friction modifiers in ATF play a critical role in the operation and longevity of late-model electronic automatic transmissions. Friction modifiers are chemical additives in the fluid that affect how the transmission feels when it shifts gears. Vehicle manufacturers have specifications for the type and amount of friction modifiers that are required for their transmissions. The specifications differ from one make and model of vehicle to another depending on which transmission they have and the mechanical differences in the torque converters and clutch packs. That's why Ford, Chrysler, General Motors, Honda, Toyota, Nissan and the other OEMs have so many different ATF formulations."
I stole that from here:http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/bf100456.htm
Notice the part where it explains when and where those modifiers are being used. The friction modifiers in ATF won't harm your pump or injectors unless they're made out of some whackey kind of clutch material.

 

OK I give up as you are going to do as you like and I the same. but after almost 40 years in the auto repair industry with most of it in transmissions I DO KNOW just a little about the other use's that ATF IS specked for and a fuel supplement is not one of them so be my guest with it.

 

i personally see nothing wrong with burning atf. i have seen it done and done it myself for a good while. i am not telling anyone they have to burn it. you put whatever you want into your tank....id actually prefer to use atf over WMO but thats jus my opinion...feel free to make it yours...

 

Even complaining about burning waste oils not being green really isn't a valid argument. Container ships and other large sea going vessels burn the worst garbage you could ever imagine.

 

CadillacMan has valid point there arent any emmissions standards for ocean going vessels so whatever they CAN burn they DO burn

 

Ive been using a 50/50 mix waste oil in my 05 common rail for the past 7k miles Truck absolutely loves it. I dont pull heay trailers just a lot of stop and go plus a few trips to nj. i carry 100 gal tank in bed with 50/50 mix and just fuel up at rest areas on trips

 

Keep us updated on how well it does. my thots have been that the common fail fuel system wudnt like it in that ratio. i wud think it'd need to be much thinner. i have a couple of buddys who have that engine that wud like to know how it runs before they try it.

 

has anyone seen the blue grass fuel system? http://bluegrassfuel.net/page4.php

They are selling for $900! No freaking way am I paying that much money...

I've got access to about 600-1,000 gallons of used hydraulic oil a year and I'm working on building a system that copies the blue grass system....

the system filters down to 1 micro thru a whole house water filter... th key is the "magic bead" pod that sits in the tank... I've done some research and figured out that the bead pod is actually sodium polyacrylate (SAP).... it will absorb water, anti-freeze, and anything else that is water based, but not the oil.... I have my system priced out and can build it for about $300 if I buy all new tanks...

the blue grass people try to lead you to believe that their bead pod is some highly restricted filter media only the government can use... but the secret is out.. and it's polyacrylate.... ever been to a wedding and seen those water beads... it the same stuff...should be able to run around town for less the $0.05 a mile!

 

They are now required to burn cleaner fuel in US ports and 30 miles out.
In 2015 they will be required to burn ULSD in port but many big ships are now converting to plug into dockside power so the don't run any engines at all in port.

Be careful burning WMO in Calif and a few NE states. If you get dipped for offroad fuel and they see black fuel the fine is much worse than for red diesel.

 

Can they legally dip a pickup? Every time I tired to suck fuel from my F250 I ended up messing up the fuel guage sending unit with the hose and they never read right again.

 

The EPA allows to to burn waste motor oil in a pre-2007 diesel engine. The used oil has to be your own source (you can't go around collecting it from everywhere). If you search their website, you can find the rule.

Cummins has system called "Centinel" which bleeds the use oil directly into the fuel system.
https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/.../centinel.html

 

This thread reminds me of my veggie oil days. 3,000 miles on 85% veggie oil and 15% gas. Zip ties and t shirts/denim jeans make great free sock filters. The hard part about cooking oil is that you must filter it, let it sit over 100 degree heat for 12 hours to let the water separate and fall to the bottom. Then filter again. Many of those water separating filters (including a fancy racor I had) wont do the trick. water seems to bond to the tiniest of subparticles (too small for a filter) and only settling over heat will get it. I'm not sure how all this applies to WMO but I'm sure there's some crossover.

 

I'm looking into using sodium ployacrylate to full out water from small (25 gallon) batches... I've ordered a small amount ($1.99) and will be doing some bench tests to see if it will pull out water, anti-freeze, and other nasty's like they claim