Timing Pin one more time
#1
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Thread Starter
Timing Pin one more time
I fought locating tdc with the cam timing pin on my last 12v. Why did cummins put such a big o-ring on it, its so hard to move! I finally pulled the sob right out because I pulled so hard just to move it, it popped the retaining ring off, but then I could see the cam hole!
Now I have another 12v, but its 4x4 and even tighter reaching up there with the axle/linkage in the way. No way barring over while at the same time pulling/pushing that sob pin in and out wondering if it landed or not. Arrrrr!
Whats the solution here? I don't have a helper.
Is the drop valve method the best and then bolt a pointer to the speed sensor, file a groove in the balancer and forget the timing pin forever?
Thanks!
Now I have another 12v, but its 4x4 and even tighter reaching up there with the axle/linkage in the way. No way barring over while at the same time pulling/pushing that sob pin in and out wondering if it landed or not. Arrrrr!
Whats the solution here? I don't have a helper.
Is the drop valve method the best and then bolt a pointer to the speed sensor, file a groove in the balancer and forget the timing pin forever?
Thanks!
#2
Registered User
They are definitely a pain, what I do is get a helper, spray the pin with your choice of lube, move it back and forth a few times to get the o-ring lubed and the crud loosened up, then pull the #1 valve cover off get the # intake to just almost closed position then have the helper use the barring tool to slowly turn it over while you push the pin in (I've had to use a prybar on the end of the pin to get it to go into the hole before)then file a mark on your balancer.
With that being said there is also the possibility that the PO forgot to pull the pin back out and snapped it off when they turned it over to do the second set of valves. I will try and get a picture today showing how far in the pin will go without being lined up so you will know if yours is not broken off.
With that being said there is also the possibility that the PO forgot to pull the pin back out and snapped it off when they turned it over to do the second set of valves. I will try and get a picture today showing how far in the pin will go without being lined up so you will know if yours is not broken off.
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rebar (10-06-2018)
#3
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Thread Starter
They are definitely a pain, what I do is get a helper, spray the pin with your choice of lube, move it back and forth a few times to get the o-ring lubed and the crud loosened up, then pull the #1 valve cover off get the # intake to just almost closed position then have the helper use the barring tool to slowly turn it over while you push the pin in (I've had to use a prybar on the end of the pin to get it to go into the hole before)then file a mark on your balancer.
With that being said there is also the possibility that the PO forgot to pull the pin back out and snapped it off when they turned it over to do the second set of valves. I will try and get a picture today showing how far in the pin will go without being lined up so you will know if yours is not broken off.
With that being said there is also the possibility that the PO forgot to pull the pin back out and snapped it off when they turned it over to do the second set of valves. I will try and get a picture today showing how far in the pin will go without being lined up so you will know if yours is not broken off.
From my previous 12v experience, the small amount (guessing 1/8") of pin movement this new 12v has means the pin still has the locating tit. I doubt anyone has ever used it.
The problem is that the pin so difficult to move. I was thinking about making a tool that would hold the pin loosely, and push and pry from a empty bolt hole close to the pan, like a seesaw. But by the time I built it, I could have completed the drop valve method.
If I do the drop valve method, is using a home made pointer accurate enough for all procedures requiring TDC? I don't like the pointer in the video because its located to far from the balancer surface
#4
Registered User
If I remember right, I was able to bar the motor over with the alternator (or one crank bolt) with one hand and pull the timing plug out to feel for the notch with my other hand at the same time. Reaching from top of the engine bay.
I also pulled the injector timing plug out and watched for the timing indicator to come into view, to get it close.
I also pulled the injector timing plug out and watched for the timing indicator to come into view, to get it close.
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rebar (10-06-2018)
#5
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I use the barring tool, and am able to bar the engine over with a 1/2 ratchet. Not fun while trying to push the timing pin in, but do-able. I'd be very wary of filing a notch in the damper - the ESS reads the damper notches to determine RPM and other functions. If you put in extra notch in the damper, you may have unexpected side effects. Maybe scribe a line or make a punch mark, if you can do it in an area not covered by the ESS?
#6
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Thread Starter
I use the barring tool, and am able to bar the engine over with a 1/2 ratchet. Not fun while trying to push the timing pin in, but do-able. I'd be very wary of filing a notch in the damper - the ESS reads the damper notches to determine RPM and other functions. If you put in extra notch in the damper, you may have unexpected side effects. Maybe scribe a line or make a punch mark, if you can do it in an area not covered by the ESS?
Im slowly getting closer to that kdp.. drum roll
#7
Registered User
Yes - I have a 2WD. And I like to practice contortionist exercises for the heck of it... lol Even with the 2WD, I admit it's difficult and painful to reach around and deal with that pin. When I reinstalled my IP after overhaul, I accidentally pulled the pin out like you mention. That did let me use a mirror to see when I was getting close, and pop the pin back in at the very end.
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rebar (10-06-2018)
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#8
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I removed the timing pin and o-ring and lubed it with vacuum pump grease. It moves so much easier now.. So easy, I'm not sure if I'm comfortable without the retaining ring re-installed..
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