G1625S

As some may have noticed in my last timing-related thread, I recently advanced my pump gear 1 tooth. Weather was fair today, so I romped on it a few times...the boost gauge pretty much follows my right foot. Flat highway cruising @60 in 5th---put the hammer down and my 40 psi boost gauge is pegged before my foot hits the floorboards! I thought more timing would take some boost away--I played with the turbo master, but even with that backed waaay off, my right foot is still directly connected to the psi gauge Runs great otherwise. I found my dial indicator, so hopefully this week I'll find out where I'm at for sure. Thoughts?

Blowndodge

My experience has been that at the level my truck's timing is set (1.7mm) I lose a couple of pounds of boost, but the throttle response is so much better. Mileage is a little better and out of the hole is snappier.

I think the good pastor runs a lot of timing and prefers it at well.

gman07

Your boost went up? Did EGT's go down or up? Usually advanced timing gives you less boost and lower temps. You sure it isnt actually retarded slightly? Let us know what it looks like when you use the dial indicator...

cLAYH

Do you tow with it? I oringinally pushed my VE all the way up to the way up to the valve cover. Not sure how many degrees this was but it ran great. Untill I loaded up my 1800# camper, then the water temps were WAY out of control. It was so bad I replaced my clutch fan thinking it was shot. Eventually I had a friend set the timing at 15* and its much better.

I'd be interested to hear what sort of water temps you are running. Probably not an issue at this time of the year.

Blowndodge

My water temps are much higher and I've wondered why that is? I love the way the truck runs with advanced timing but thats a point I've not considered? Maybe Dave or Pastor Bob will chime in and add some validity to that phenomenon. Did advancing your timing cause it to run hotter while towing? I've asked that question in a different post last month because my truck ran substantially hotter towing.

brad

cLAYH

Ya I didn't connect it either untill after my advance was turned down. It was turned down in the fall so I didn't really get to test it untill the next spring. Much better now but when towing my camper, car trailer and Jeep, I can still hit the "H" when pulling a long grade. I may yet pull it back some more.

RustyJC

Advancing injection timing means that we start and finish combustion sooner. Among other things, advancing timing will:

1. Increase peak firing pressure

2. Transfer more thermal load to the combustion chamber components since they see the combustion process for more degrees of crankshaft rotation before the exhaust valve opens - higher jacket water and lube oil temperatures will result

3. Transfer less energy to the exhaust stream - this results in less boost for a given BHP output since the turbine sees less drive energy

Rusty

G1625S

I do not tow. In my original timing thread, Wannadiesel addressed the towing factor and recommended AGAINST lots of timing when working the truck hard. As he put it,
'play' trucks can get away with far more radical tuning than working trucks. I may only ask my truck for full boogie for maybe 10-15 seconds at a time whereas pulling 10k over Vail Pass in Colorado puts a huge load on an engine over a very long period of time. I'm by no means an authority on this, but if I were to pull regularly with my rig, I'd set the timing gear back to stock and look elsewhere for more power and economy. Without head studs, this little exercise may very well bite me in the behind, but somebody's gotta try it, right? So far, I love the way the truck runs. It's weird that I lost so much smoke yet still have so much boost, but again, the only way to really know where I am is with a dial indicator. I'm getting to that this week, I hope. For now, my wastegate is set real low and I'm keeping the revs way up when I lay into it.

FerranRico

I've recently installed a rebuilt pump with the 3K spring and fuel rod.., since nobody around Yorktown, VA seems to be able to or wanna help me time it... I've purchased the dial indicator.. to do it myself...
To that... two questions..
1. where can I buy a Barring tool?
2. How do I set the timing? Is it.. set the engine at TDC, rotate the pump to lowest indication and set to zero, then move to 1.5 mm travel?
Can anyone set me straight?..
I'm finding it fun to do all this by myself.., I just hope to not mess up too bad.., when I first installed the pump, it wouldn't start.., so I thought that it was a tooth off.., so I reset it to where I thought it should be.., and after rotating the pump (the mark now sits Below where the original was) it started.., it runs great now, it blows white smoke at idle.. which is high.. and it too is pegging the 30lb boost gauge when I punch it.., haven't noticed an increase in temperature.., but then again.. I haven't towed my 10K lb trailer yet...
I'll appreciate any help..
Thanks

lovemysan

I don't have any problems with temperature. That must mean I should run more timing. yay!

wannadiesel

Greg, you've got a lot of advance and I bet your HP has jumped a good bit.

The problem I ran into with the TurboMaster was once I started making a good amount of HP, it wouldn't allow the wastegate to open far enough to flow enough exhaust to properly control boost. That was why I ended up going back to a stock actuator with a boost controller.

wannadiesel

You can get the barring tool from a Snap-On guy. Just flag down a truck, it's a pretty common tool.

To set the timing- After you get the dial indicator all set up and the engine at TDC, turn the engine backwards until the gauge stops moving. Zero the gauge and turn the engine back to TDC. The gauge reading is now the pump lift at TDC.

From what you are describing, the timing is retarded pretty far right now.

G1625S

''Greg, you've got a lot of advance and I bet your HP has jumped a good bit.

The problem I ran into with the TurboMaster was once I started making a good amount of HP, it wouldn't allow the wastegate to open far enough to flow enough exhaust to properly control boost. That was why I ended up going back to a stock actuator with a boost controller.''


Ahhh, I was wondering what prompted you to switch back. It really does pull a lot harder, but by 2500 or so it clams up, but I'm thinking my cold side is still the weakest link up top.

wannadiesel

Yeah, in my case it did OK until I got the POD's in and cranked the pump more. You've got bigger injectors than I had stock, so it's not too surprising.

FerranRico

Thanks WannaDiesel, I really appreciate the info help.
I'll give it a shot..
Regards