what timing do you think is right for my truck once i put my 370 injectors back in? i have my afc slid forward. laser cut dv's, starwheel turned, 4k gvs, and a wastgate elbow. im still battling the low power thing also. if i try to spin the tires it seems like the pump weekens out and floods out. the smoke is gray. i stretched my overflow spring back to a half inch. ive heard from the local diesel mechaics that my delivery valve springs might be broke/weak. is this possible? also the idle keeps getting lower and lower. im now down to 550 rpms when it was at 700 rpms. its really starting to get to me. ive heard everything from piston rings to pump, to valves, to timing. has this happened to anyone else?
thanks

 

anyone have any ideas?

 

Have you checked your fuel pressure? That makes a difference.

Timing you should be up around 16° or maybe 17°. Advanced timing really screws with low rpm power, but you need it for later.

The idle screw on the pump just plain wears down. Idle adjustment is not a one time thing. Plan on the adjust ment every year.

 

im looking into redoing my timing sometime this weekend. how should i boost bu my fuel pressure if it is low? ill check it tomorrow. ive had to turn up my idle twice now. i was just making sure it wasnt linked to another problem. thanks

 

Start and warm engine and record fuel pressure. Pressure should be 117-152 kPa (17-22 psi) at idle speed. A minimum of 172 kPa (25 psi) should be indicated after raising engine speed to its rated rpm (2,500 rpm) with no load.
If supply pressure is less than 17 psi at idle or 25 psi at 2500 rpm (no load), restrict the fuel return hose by pinching the hose. If pressure returns to normal or above, replace the overflow valve with a new valve (P/N 04883838AA). The overflow valve is located on the side of the injection pump
For 1995 1/2 M.Y. engines equipped with Automatic transmission and a CPL number of 1968, set timing not to exceed 14.5 degrees BTDC static timing or 4.9 mm plunger lift at TDC.
For all other 1994 and 1995 M.Y. engines, set timing not to exceed 13.5 degrees BTDC static timing or 5.9 mm plunger lift at TDC.

 

Get the timing to around 16, and pull back your AFC a bit. Too much fuel too soon will hurt you way more than it will help you. LC's and bigger injectors will put out the fire without a tuned AFC.

 

i checked it today. at around 2500 rpms it gets down to 10 psi. and it bounces around between 17 and 28 at idle. so that has to be the problem. im going to buy an overflow valve tomorrow. thanks. also the timing gets set this weekend. should it be set at 16°, or 14.5°, or something else?

 

Set timing to 16. OF valve may not be your fuel pressure problem.

If you don't have a gauge snubber or needle valve barely cracked open in the line to your fuel pressure gauge the pressure will pulsate and you'll never get a good reading.
That's exactly what your idle pressure sounds like.
If the pressure is dropping to 10 at high rpm and you've eliminated the lift pump by pinching off the return line at idle (pressure should shoot way up) then the problem is a plugged filter or pinched fuel supply line.

 

I just re-timed mine to 16.5 with stock injectors and a 0 plate full forward with a 3k and I have unbelievable throttle response and revs to 3k flawlessly compared to stock timing.

 

Laser cuts might be a bit too much fuel. Id guess you smoke like a freight train with all that and stock air. Maybe back up to 191's. Id honstly trade the DDP 50's away and get the 90's for now. What is your fuel plate?
Idle should be like 750 in drive with the AC on I think. Idle will change with different injectors, at least mine did with the DDP's.
Vulcan performance can set you up with a combo of fittings to mount a fuel pressure gauge on there if you want. Youll need a snubber valve like others have said. If you use a test guage make sure its fluid filled so you get a good reading.
If you plan to do more mods Id save up for a better turbo like a phat shaft and a built pump like a dragonfly. Only so much you can do to a stock 160 before its cheaper to move on.
Youll kill that stock trans in no time with all the bomb's. Might want to look at goerends or DTT for the next rebuild.

 

i have the stock fuel plate in right now. i have a #0 plate. but took it out when i put the laser cuts in. im going to keep the 50hp injectors in until i get a phat shaft 64, and a good torque converter. im just trying to stay in my budget right now. im only 16 .

 

I had my 175 pump sent to II to be made into a dragon fly. I checked out what I could in it without screwing with the springs. What I found was 191 DV's, 2095 rack plug, #5 plate. I'm sure there is a GSK and AFC springs in there too. Cheaper to just buy that stuff yourself if theres nothing wrong with your current IP.