I have a 97 Cummins with a auto. I am want to know what timing I should have it set at? I have install 215 injectors, 4' exhaust, #8 fuel plate, BHAF, and I have upgraded the auto and a new T/C.

 

Here is my rule of thumb on timing the 97:

If you pull a heavy load in the mountains, or start out with heavy loads like equipment trailers and backhoes, set the timing at no more than 13.5-14.5 degrees.

If you pull a light load, or really know how to tell if your engine is lugging and know how to avoid lugging, then set the timing at 15.5-17 degrees.

Timing on the 12 valve is critical as there is no dynamic timing at all, so if you get it too advanced and lug the engine you will stretch the headbolts and blow the headgasket. These baby Cummins will make a whole lot more power than people realize, and if it comes on too low in the rpm range it can be quite destructive.

If you are really knowledgable of diesels and know how to tell by the sound and vibration when they are lugging, the farther advanced (up to around 17 degrees) you go the more power and economy you will have once you get to operating rpm's.

 

Mine will be set at 16-16.5*, but I only tow about 7000lbs.

 

Around here most of the time the degrees never come into play. We know where you are but the sound of the engine is the best way to tell. Believe or not, this works very well.

..Preston..

 

How about a 96 auto(Goerand Trans), #10 plate, Drop in K&N, regularly towing around 15K. So far never in Mountains but it is possible that I will do so once within the next yr? What kind of timing should I run, should I change or tighten the headbolts and what will timing changes due to my power, engine noise, and EGTs?

 

Capt.-

Scroll down about halfway for the second chart.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/timing.htm

 

Ok From what I've read there 15 degrees is about as far as I would want to go but it didn't address whether I should re-torque the heads/change out the head bolts or leave them at stock torque specs.

 

Is it even worth changing on the '97? My timing stock is 14 degrees. Is it worth bumping a single degree? Especially considering the fact that it will more than likely take a few tries to hit exactly 15. Or, should you just shoot for anywhere between 15 and 15.5, and accept wherever it falls?

 

I'm telling you it does not matter if you're off a degree. I tow 15k, with a #10 plate, 3K governor springs, and my pump set at 287cc on all 6. My timing is around 22 degrees. The pump is what you're timing. If you want to go with degrees, set it at 20-25 and let it go. I kept mine at 16* for 4 years and it never felt right. Now with the sound of the engine and the performance of the engine, it's finally right.

I'll say no more and ya'll have fun figureing it out. I'm going to the races this weekend.

Bye Now

..Preston..

 

I tow a 7500 # travel trailer in the summer sometimes up the mountains. The way it looks from other members if I set the timing in the range of 15- 17 * I should be about right. Thanks everyone for your input.