Hi all I'm new to this forum and have never owned a diesel truck. Im shopping for a 96 to 98 Dodge 12 Valve and was curious as to what I should really be looking for that a typical person might not check out. Im probably gonna buy a truck thats a 5 speed and has between 150K and 250K miles on it. I know I'm probably going to have to go through all the suspension and ball joints and thinks like that. I guess I'm just looking for the secrects that tell whether a truck is worth the money or not. I'll be bombing this truck soon after I buy it. Thanks in advance for any shopping advice. Oh and I'm looking to spend up to $8,000 or so.

 

Check for KDP damage. Then check the front end over real good, and when you take it for a drive test to make sure fifth gear is working properly. Have fun and enjoy. Oh and welcome to the site.

 

As stated in my sig line, I have well over 250k, it's not a concern on one of these. The Killer Dowell Pin, (do a search) and just a few other truck-related issues are really the only major things to go wrong. There are potential fuel-line problems that create a slow-leak of air into the system, but that is easily rectified.

With any older truck, the most important thingk to know is it's history. Look carefully, do not purchase the first one that you come across. Carfax anything you seriously consider; to date, I have carfaxed 3 trucks reported stolen, 5 with "salvage" titles, and one that came up that had been "lemoned." That was in helping two people look for trucks. Service records speak volumes, as well. Reading a diesel theory book, taking time to read extensively and learn of the engine you will have in the truck, will also prove invaluable. Whatever you buy, allow about 10 - 15% of your budget for repairs and maintance to the vechile in the first six months after you purchase it (outside of modifications). Many people get into trouble as they do not plan for this. These truck are costly to maintain - $129/each for front roters adds up quick.

Welcome to the site - keep asking questions!

 

I am going to look at a 97 Extended Cab automatic today with 102,000 miles on it. I know about the KDP problem, what part of the gear cover do I need to look for cracks on? Also, is the automatics in these a major problem? The truck appears to be straight and well kept, I will run the Carfax on it before purchasing. Any thing else I really need to be aware of, turbo issues, fuel, exhaust?
Didn't mean to hi-jack this thread, just trying to be well informed before making a purchase.

Thanks.

 

65pacecar - if you have a reputable technician who could give it a once-over, that would help considerably. Sure it will cost around $100 or so for the inspection. Then again, a freind and his wife have a '95 AT Cummins with 155k on it, and they had to replace the auto trans. How does $3850 sound to you? It is worth having it looked over before plunking down that much. And YES, the automatics fail, they can be modified to withstand more, but that happens when they fail and you replace it.

KDP - look to see if the front bolts have been removed ever on the cover - it will be just in front of the injection pump, and you can see several of them from the top.

 

Thanks for the info, I have been looking for a 5 speed but they are difficult to find. I did just find one today that I may go look at, a 96 3500 5 speed one owner with 185k miles on it. Is that too many miles to consider looking at, price is decent. Also, is this the 5 speed with the bad 5th gear nut on it, if so how difficult is it to fix and is is a huge problem or pretty isolated?

Thanks.

 

185k is no problem. There is a '95 2500 in the classified ads on this site for sale with 850k on it. It is also a 5-speed. The nut seems isolated - likely taken care of by now. I have had no problems with my '96's 5-speed with over 311k on it.

Check it out - good luck!

 

If you look at any 98's, check the 8th digit in the VIN for a C or D, jackpot for they are the last 12 valves.


Top 5 Reason's for a 12 valve 98 Cummins according to "12valve' (move over Letterman)
1. Its got the almost bullet proof 180 hp mechanical inj pump, easy to turn up as well!
2. Its got the newer style dash (the same as up to 2002)
3. It may have four doors, better then the older ones! (some haven't)
4. It may be a short bed, (dont know what you look for)
5. You'd have a truck they made only for a 1/2 year, (98-89.5) but very wanted! thats why we got 2 of them!

When looking at older models, check lower doors for rust, rap your knuckles along the lower areas to see if it has been properly fixed. (some guys feel it up with bondo, looks nice for a while thats it).

Good luck

Serge

 

Went and drove the 96 Dually 5 speed Cummins. Nice truck overall, straight body, nice paint clean interior for its age, decent tires, everything worked and it ran excellent. Drove the truck about 45-50 minutes in town and on the interstate, interested in the truck until the interstate trip. I think I have experienced the death wobble, at 60-70 MPH the whole truck shook, even shook the doors of the truck. What causes this and how big of a deal is it to fix? I was going to make an offer until that experience. The 5 speed shifted nice and smooth and the clutch felt strong, but I did notice a click or popping sound when I shifted from 2-3 almost everytime, Well, I will probably keep looking, the truck would have been a decent deal if everything was fine, but with the wobble issue I would really have to low ball them to justify buying a truck that needed work. Also, the KDP didn't appear to be fixed, but didn't notice any cracks in the gear cover.

Thanks for the advice on here, it will help with my future test drives.

 

I think that most death wobble is a bad tracbar on a 4x4. Worn tie rods make it even worse. If the steering felt a little sloppy I am willing to bet trac bar. If you do a search you will find a ton of posts on replacement options from factory to after market. These are routine repairs that can help you get a good price on the truck. I personally jump on vehicles that have minor problems that I can fix easily or cheaply. Tends to save you thousands.
My truck had a mind of its own when I first bought it. A thuren trac bar and 2 tie rods got almost all the play out of the steering. After that a steering box adjustment and an alignment got her pretty tight. If you get the alignment done there are some specs that are on the board that really help the steering wander. A word of caution though. If you drive alot on flat roads, ie low to no crown, you may not want to add as much caster. My truck is straight as an arrow on 2 lanes but get in the left lane on the interstate and she can wander depending on the crown.

 

If the engine oil is really black, and the engine makes a lot of rattling noise when you start it up, and there are only six cylinders and they are all in a row, stay away from it.

No really, like the guy says above, have a reputable mechanic check it out if you are not use to diesels. Ask for maintenance records. Drive it and get a feel for how the truck is doing on the road, how it handles, how it stops, how much slop is in the drive line and so on. Look at general appearance and care of the vehicle.

Good luck and welcome.

I just saw where you are.. If you decide on one, get Keith at Forest City Diesel to look at it first. He knows them inside and out and is near you. He can do the KDP and everything else you need.