Finally get the new fuel strainer kit, plus strainer washer and new drain valve assy from Cummins. 4x4 install, so mucho hell to get off and back on. Disconnect front drive shaft etc. Installed both fuel screen housing and fuel filter nearly full with new #2 diesel. Pulled out the fuel pre-heater assy entirely.

Noticed a leak after pressing the lift pump priming bulb about 10 or 15 times.
Leak isn't at fuel strainer housing. or at top of filter cannister, also not at or ring. Fuel leaks down the drain tube.

Attempting to start the rig, startup sequence showed "water in fuel" warning light. I drain the cannister. Motor starts pretty easily, but still leaking fuel Down the drain tube, nowhere else.

Call to dealer. They'll pay to mail me a new part and refund $$ when I return part. Sure sucks big time to change fuel filter on 6" lifted truck... ABS brakes & Banks Intake manifold mean can barely even touch the filter from up top... Going to remove the starter and the front drive shaft if I ever change this filter again...

None of this One-World made crap works reliably....

 

Have you tried removing the two nuts that hold the brake master to the booster and pulling the master out of the way?
Even though it doesn't look like it you can swing the master way over to the side without bending or disconnecting any brake lines.
Gives you a ton of room to get at the filter from the top.
Trick only works on trucks with vacuum assisted brakes.

 

Hi Bill,

ABS brakes and the Banks PowerPack Twin Ram air intake plus all the other gear is really too much for me to deal with. My hands are too big to get in there; can just barely lift the valve to drain water when have needed to over the years. Looks like would have to remove ALL the ABS gear to reach the filter can, much less be able to change from topside. Not any room to move the master cylinder to right to gain access. Underneath works though...

I now have the fuel cannister change down pat. Fill the cannister full of fuel and just try to not spill any as I weasel it through the cable lines to get to the housing.

If the drain valve would hold pressure, I would be in mechanics Valhalla. If I hadn't taken the clear plastic tube extension off, wipe everything dry with paper toweling and then seen the drip coming from the black tube the clear tubing fits over; I would not have believed the valve defective.

Maybe by Saturday if parts have arrived by mail then I can get this fixed.

ETA: Appears to be -0- drippage from the fuel areas worked on. Have a blue poly mat under the rig by front L wheel and no evidence of any fuel drips.

 

Got the replacement drain in today's mail.

Removed the starter and finally got the filter full of fuel spun-on and seated. Pressed the prime bulb a few times to be sure and got the overflow there. Starter back on and sensor connected and after a bit of cranking the motor fired and rand pretty good, then died.

Guess I ran much of the pump fuel out the last time and this when fired the motor.

This time, NO LEAKS ANYWHERE! Yay! But, still don't fire-up after 20-30 seconds of cranking, SO guess I need to bleed the injector lines?

Never done this before, but guessing I need to loosen the nut over injectors on exhaust manifold side of engine? Need to use a flare-nut wrench or will regular box wrench be okay?

Thanks for all the help!

 

Open end wrench will work. One or two turns of the nut are plenty .
I usually only crack open the first three injectors.
It can take several minutes of cranking in 20 second spurts/cool downs to purge the air.
Most times the batteries will need to be charged in order to get the air out and the engine started.

 

Thank you for your reply, sir!

The sensor seems to always register "fuel in water", but maybe that will go away if can get the motor started...

Have been reading all the threads can find on how to get fuel into the pump. Have gotten a couple of coughs out of the motor, but no fire or smoke yet. I opened the small 10mm nut on center bolt of the filter cannister and seem to get a bit of fuel moisture on top that wasn't there before.

Have a small compressor. Fuel tank is about 90% full and have tried pressurizing the fuel tank with the bleed-screw open. Got a small pressurization going but not lots of fuel coming out the bleed screw. Is the screw supposed to be removed entirely?

Loosened the fuel intake banjo fastener on the injector pump. Had lots of fuel there, but none at the #1 injector line on top of pump.

Starter is in as-new condition still. Gets a bit warm after 30-40 sec of cranking.

Fuel shutoff solenoid still seems okay, stays up after cranking until key is turned off. Had some doubts so swapped fuel shut-off relay with the starter relay in the wheelwell box. Maybe the blue fused link wire is bad? but if can get fuel to the injectors all might be fine.

Will open the first 3 injector nuts on passenger side and just get set for a long spell on the starter. 20 seconds, wait 5min etc until get fuel spurting tighten the nuts 18ft lbs and hopefull run the motor till smooths out.


One basic question: Only supposed to use 1 o-ring gasket on the drain assy, right? New assy comes w/o-ring already installed, so didn't install the one in the filter shrink wrap.


Thanks again.

 

Only need to open the bleed screw a couple of turns.
Solenoid and blue wire sound fine if the solenoid is staying up.
You will only get fuel out of the injectors if the engine is turning over.
Keep at it, sometimes it takes a long time to purge enough air to get one to start.
Keep the accelerator floored while cranking.

 

This morning did the pressurized fuel tank thing again and can see lots of fuel dripping forward of fuel cannister and starter. Remove the strainer bowl and find the gasket had fallen off. Put gasket on with just a bit of black gasket maker to keep gasket in place.

After 30 sec of cranking thought felt it gasp/buck, so hit starter again and it fired right up!

Ran the motor at 1000+ rpm for while then let it idle for 15min. But now I have a new leak, flowing pretty heavily from the Curved Hose between lift pump and pre-filter screen housing. So... Gotta get a new hose


Edited: Turned out that I had forgotten to tighten the main bolt on the fuel cannister. Leaks stopped when I did. Also had forgotten to torque the #1 injector line at the IP and the #3 line on the exhaust side. Test drive; all seems fine!!!


Thank you, Bill for all your assistance.