getting very close to the 100,000 mark and want to do the valve adjustment myself this time. What do I need as far as tools go? anything other than that.<br>Thanks<br> ;D Al

 

Tap into this site (no pun intended). Valve lash adjustment Should walk you through it. I used the #6 cylinder cross-over to locate TDC #1. Couldn't for the life of me get to the timing pin on the back of the timing case. I got the barring tool and it worked slick. Heard of others turning the alternator pulley if you go slow. Take your time, make sure it's cold and consider replacing the valve cover gaskets while you're at it. Can be reused, but why take a chance. Good luck.<br><br>Paul

 

A combo wrench, screwdriver, feeler guages and a dose of patience is all you need. You will get the hang of it after doing a few. <br><br>New gaskets are pretty cheap from a Cummins dealer and will keep them from seeping oil. They only take a couple minutes to replace, so you could re-use them and just replace them if they do leak.

 

You adjusting a 12 or 24 valve?<br>

 

Doesnt the 24v have the same adjustment specs as the 12v? Intake 10...Exhaust 20. The only difference that I know is that the 24 has no timing pin. If you pull the oil fill tube off the front, you will see a notch in the gear housing at the 12 o clock position. Rotate the engine until the VP44 gear scribe mark is at 12 o clock and lined up with the notch on the gear housing and you have TDC.

 

New gaskets, absolutely. I have also found that the best adjustment method, for me anyway, is to snug the gap to the point where I have to really tug HARD on the feeler gauge to get it out. Be sure and blow all the dirt and debris away as best you can before pulling the covers.<br><br>Gaps are: 0.254mm or 0.010 for the intake and 0.508mm or 0.020 for the exhaust. The real bear is getting the **** timing pin in the hole. I find that using the bolts on the harmonic balancer are a heck of a lot easier than the barring tool. Go slow, be patient and you'll get it in the hole. Then, mark the harmonic balancer with a thin line of white paint, exactly where it lines up with the serpentine belt. Then when you do your 360* rotation for the 2nd set of adjustments, you can forget the pin.<br><br>Oh, don't forget to pull the pin BEFORE you try and rotate.<br><br>Good luck!

 

Thanks everyone. I found the link to Genos to be very informitive also.<br>thanks again. Oh ya some one asked 12 or 24 valve, It's a 12. Debris and dirt? On my engine, never happen on any of them.<br> ;D Al

 

When you say, &quot;adjust them cold&quot;, be advised that is roughly room temperature, not winter temps (freezing). On a whim, I took the advice of a friend with a '98 12 valve and did them hot (drove it in, popped the hood and started in with gloves on). The feeler gauge was snug when I slipped it out. I think it runs just fine and there is no clatter.

 

[quote author=alleyyooper link=board=16;threadid=11268;start=0#107508 date=1045865565]<br> getting very close to the 100,000 mark and want to do the valve adjustment myself this time. What do I need as far as tools go? anything other than that.<br>Thanks<br> ;D Al<br>[/quote]<br><br>When you do the search, type in &quot;Valve Adjustment&quot;. You want to search as a phrase. Then, go to the bottom and change the lookback time to 180 days. You can also change your results from 25 to 50. Believe me, there is plenty of info there, you just have to get used to the search engine.

 

Mine is due also. After reading about how to do it and the time and tools it takes I have decided against it. There is a shop that only does diesel engines about 30 mins from my place that will do the adjustment for $200 cdn (approx $130USD) with gaskets included. I personally feel I would rather pay that, save time, and have the peace of mind by letting the pros handle it.

 

Duallyjeff..I'm with you