I like to use the companion method for adjusting my valves. Being that we do this important maintenance like once a year I rely on my notes instead of memory. Can't find my notes!!! So I looked at the sticky and things are not clear enough for me, so tell me if I did this correct?: locating TDC I rotated the engine via the alternator nut counter clockwise and watched #6 intake go up, head back all the way down till it bottomed out and as soon as it started back up I STOPPED. Adjusted the first series of valves per the FSM. When those valves were done I rotated the engine 360 by watching the #1 intake go down, bottom out, at start of rise I STOPPED. I then adjusted the 2nd series of valves per the FSM. So did I do this correct by using the initial rise then stop of the intake valves on 1 and 6 or was I suppose to be watching the initial rise then stop on the EXHAUST valves of 1 and 6? My notes covered the correct one but like I said I misplaced them. Hey, I totally understand there are numerous ways to adjust valves but I am inquiring about this method only, cause I am more comfortable doing it this way- thanks for helping

 

Nope.

When 1 is at TDC, 6 is between the exhaust and intake strokes. At that point the exhaust valve will be a few thou from closed, and the intake valve will be a few thou opened. In other words watch the exhaust valve rise until the intake valve starts moving down, then quit.

 

He's turning the engine backwards using the alternator nut, so you watch the Intake valve rise until the Exhaust valve just starts to drop. Right?

 

. Yes I am turning the engine backwards by turning the alternator nut to the left. See?! That's what I'm talking about; so many different ways/methods to adjust valves on these engines. I never liked the timing pin method. Requires 2 people and even then, "mah fingoirs wud hoit" holding down on that pin while my partner turned the engine. Always wondered back in '91 why my neighbor volunteered me for the timing pin LOL. We both had 1st gens and we would tackle the valve adjustment together on both our trucks and I was always the "pin" guy! Anyway, could someone please clarify if I did this correct as I am leaving to go back to the Bay Area in a few hours and don't want any troubles- thanks again

 

Do you still have the TDC pin by the IP? If so, and you adjust them once a year, why not get a barring tool, find TDC @ #1 with the pin and then mark the dampener with that yellow paint that wrecking yards use and it is permanent. This is how I got mine, I just line up the line, double check it with the pin and I'm good to go...Mark

 

I do have the barring tool. But like I stated earlier I am dead set in my foolish ways LOL! I am still awaiting an answer on if I was to watch the intake valve come up from bottomed out or was I suppose to watch the exhaust valve come up once bottomed out. One of these days, mark, I will take your advice cause it sounds like a no brainer and also cause I paid $50 for that barring tool, but for now I am pressed for time. Can't believe this hasn't been verified yet; tons of members on here that I'm sure use the companion method for adjusting valves

 

Hey Ragu.

i've had my truck, 5 years, and I've "checked" the valves once. I simply did the feeler gauge thing on the first couple cylinders according to the fsm, and I said "screw it". They were within tolerance. Put new gaskets on the valve covers, and forgot about it..

 

I am afraid to say that I had my valves adjusted by Cummins in 2001 and the mechanic said adjust them again when you see smoke coming from the tailpipe. I haven't touched them since. I would imagine the more mods and HP, the more likely that they would get out of adjustment...Mark

 

The point you want is the only point when both valves are slightly open at the same time. Doesn't really make any difference which way you come to that point.

 

Yep. Method ive always used.

 

Just curious on yours and J Martins method- which direction are you rotating the engine? Facing the front of the truck n using the alternator nut I was turning the engine over towards the left, or counter clockwise

 

Hey big. I did use alt nut (easiest) even though ive used my barring tool on my other rigs in the past. The nut method ONLY works clockwise as the belt slips otherwise. As j_man says though its not how you get to the "equal" valve balance just as long as you're there within a reasonable thou, and,of course, that you're doing it cold.

 

The valves on the "companion" cylinder have to be at "crossover" no matter which way you are turning the engine.

As you are turning the engine backward, you need to bee looking at the INTAKE valve first. You watch it go down, you watch it start to come up. When it starts to come up, you look at the EXHAUST valve on that cylinder. The moment it starts to drop you know the companion cylinder is at TDC.

If I understood what you did correctly, you had not quite turned the engine far enough when you stopped with the intake valve fully opened/just starting to close again. You should have kept turning until the exhaust valve just started to open, at which point both valves should have been slightly open.

 

Like I said, don't matter.

 

You did read my method clearly and you are correct in which I did not allow the exhaust to start coming down. Been rehashing my steps, and you are absolutely correct that I did not go a little more while turning the engine BACKWARDS. Thanks for clarifying that yes, watching the intake go down and start back up, and not the exhaust. I do hear a slight ticking noise, so I will re adjust them tomorrow. It sure feels like I got more get up n go since I adjusted them, and my pedal goes down less to maintain 70 mph! That's a good thing I suppose
!