I replaced my injectors last weekend and can't seem to get the return line to quit seeping on 3 injectors. I was careful not to bend the line when I took it off. I've replaced the copper return line washers twice, once when I did the injectors and again last night. I torqued them to 72 in-lbs. and snugged them up slowly from there trying to get them to quit. Thought I had them stopped. Went for a drive at lunch and the leaks are better than yesterday but it's still wet around the injectors. I think I overtightened them the first time. Are there any tricks to getting them to stop leaking? The supply lines are tight and don't leak out of the top.

 

You might try some small neoprene o-rings. I had a Perkins that leake, leaked, leaked. The rings stopped the problem.
Of course, you would do better with a new set of washers.

 

Thanks Smokie. I used new washers....both times.

 

Guess it's time for those rubber washers, then. i got mine at a diesel pump shop. With that Perkins, i had to carry spares with me all the time.
Hope you get it stopped.

 

Is the return the small line that links all of the injectors? I cleaned my engine today and it looks like mine is leaking on two of the injectors. I tightened them up but will not know until tomorrow if it helps. I thought it was the valve covers leaking but after cleaning everything up I can see it comes from that small line with the 10mm bolts.

Where can I get these rubber or copper washers? Dealer item?

 

Sidewinder:
Go to any diesel pump shop for the washers.

 

I stoppped by a diesel shop and the guy there figures the injectors turned a little bit when I torqued them and aren't sitting quite square with the return line. He advised me to loosen the injectors, bolt up the return line, and then do the injectors up. I checked the first set of washers I took out and a couple look like they're compressed more on one side. Tomorrow's project.

I'm also going to check around and see if I can find some 6mm copper washers for less money than they're charging me at the diesel places. I bought 3 for $8 and change.

 

That's impossible as the injectors have a locator notch that keeps them from spinning. My only suggestion on the leaks is to carefully check the bolts and injectors for and debris that may be preventing a good seal.

 

From what I saw there's a v notch that the ball on the injector sits in. If the copper washer on the bottom of the injector is thicker, would it cause the ball to sit up in the notch a bit and allow the injector to turn a tiny bit? I did check everything when I had the line off the last time. Seemed to be fine but I guess I'll check again. What an annoying little problem.....

 

Did you notice much improvement with the 215's?

Don

 

Big improvment. I can roast the tires right through first gear. Throttle response at highway speeds is much better. I talked with Mark from Piers and he recommended I slide my plate back a bit or switch to a #10 plate for the tranny's sake. He figures I'm making about 270 HP and pushing the tranny. The 215's also got rid of the blue exhaust haze I had until the truck was warmed up completely. This is it for mods until the tranny goes. Seems to me I've heard that before.

 

I finally got them to stop leaking. I talked with the service manager at Cummins. He said sometimes they have to replace the injectors that are giving trouble. I asked about the injectors turning a tiny bit, he said yes they can but the return line can bend a bit to compensate for it. So I replaced the leaky 3. I also polished up the seating surfaces on the return line with 400 wet/dry sandpaper. No more leaks.