I'm having issues with my return line- it's leaking pretty bad but I can;t see or reach exactly where. I can see it comes off the IP, bends down between the IP and the block and is attached with 2 brackets to the IP, then continues under the head overhang behind the IP and, of course, under the fuel shutoff sol.
It's "dripping" from about the area of the "bump" in the head overhang. If I contort I can feel something there, but not sure if it's a transition to rubber line or another mounting bracket.

Anyone have a picture of what this line looks like, or know what I'm talking about?
I had bought LarryB's rubber line kit several years ago planning to install it but had a hard line on the frame go bad before I got the kit in and just ordered the entire set from the tank to the block from the dealer because according to the computers there was an update to the lines and one needed the other- same as the lines that came out so I guess either my truck had the update originally or the computer was wrong again.
Anyway, I did the frame lines and my mechanic did the "Z" lines since he has a lift, so I'm not sure if Larry's kit was to replace the "Z" lines or to attach them to the hard lines on the engine.

Had this thing in the shop for several weeks with nothing but promises of We'll get to it tomorrow or the next day...since my mechanic is working at a new smaller shop he brought it to a friend of his' shop. Needless to say I'm through with that shop... and it's sitting in my yard now.

 

The hose you are talking about wiil usually cause ahard start or no start . It is a pain to get to . I take off driver side front wheel and bend inner fender out so i can reach between it and frame to change that hose . takes about 20 min. to do it that way . Hope that helps

 

Are we discussing the short hose behind the fuel filter here?
If so, you will need to remove the fuel filter housing.


Tom

 

I've never had to remove the housing, just the filter.
Over the years I've found that it's a waste of time to replace the short hoses.
The entire stock fuel supply system is a bunch of leaks just waiting to happen.
You are way ahead to use quality diesel hose all the way from tank to engine.
Marine grade hose will easily last the life of the truck.

 

I'm not sure if it's the short hose behind the filter or not- it's the return line- the one with the overflow valve in it on the IP - follow it back along the block (which is what I'm trying to do.)

I'm not able to see if it's the hard steel line or the rubber line (if there is a rubber line there).

I was hesitant about running rubber back all the way in one piece when I initially did the frame lines, but I know more about how to handle them and will when they next need replacing.

I guess I'll have to pull the wheel and fender lining to take a peek. Not the first time I've done that - put in removable pins (air dam attaching style) when I started doing the brake lines so I wouldn't go broke on POM pop rivets.

 

Return hose in red. Most times they suck air without leaking fuel so looking doesn't really help.

 

Thank Infidel - I've been unable to find that diagram large enough to make out the line well. The Red section is the "rubber" then - is that the braided stainless "Z" line or a separate piece connecting to that?
Just a hose clamp to the hard line from the IP I'm hoping?

 

It's a hard steel line at both ends of the hose secured by hose clamps.
Hose is 5/16" and about two feet long.
Like I said, you're ahead of the game to forget the short hose and instead buy enough to go all the way to the tank.

If you decide to replace just the short hose be very careful removing and installing the hose at the rear of the engine.
In the struggle behind the engine if you move the steel line much it's likely to crack leaving you with the same problem you started out with, just in a different place.

 

Thanks again infidel- I bought 10 feet of diesel rated from the local heavy truck shop when it first happened so in case the shop that was supposed to fix it needed they could cut the return line a few inches from the IP end and run all the way to the frame connection - it was in the middle of s snow storm with several more in the forecast so it was a sort of emergency. Guess I'll go from the end of the first hard line down to the frame then. It's only been 5 years or so since I had all the lines changed, but I'll take your advice. Next time I have the tank down I'll run from there back to the tank for both lines.

 

5 years would be lots with typical fuel line. Mine needs replacing every 3-4 years. I inspect the lines every time I change the fuel filter since its more accessible with the filter gone.