Hi,
My front end is done, grinding terribly, and sloppy! Just wondering if someone has a standard list of "must replace parts"? I'm away from home and have a limited selection of tools, and is there anything special i might need?
A supplier nearby has access to "Moog" linkages, and would like suggestions for bearings(both sides) and kingpins are shot also. Can the kingpins be punched out easily enough or is a press needed?
Thanks for the replies!
Cheers!

 

I am getting ready to do this also. You will need a 1-11/16" socket to get the big axle nut off to begin with. I have always used a shop press for the ball joints. I found the best price for parts at Rockauto.com

 

I just did the driver side ball joints on mine today. The most important special item I recommend is anti-sieze. Use it on everything when your putting it all back together. The hardest thing I ran into was getting the hub off. There is a "trick" I tried using a socket extension, but, when doing it, I bent a 1/2 inch drive Snap-on extention in the process and the hub didn't move. Someone here can probably better explain it for you since I'll never try it again. Others have had good success using a socket with extension to pop the hub off, but, mine was so freaking rusty and frozen together it started destroying tools. So, since we had the tool for seperating the hub into 2 halfs, I used that instead. I was then able to have access to the back half of the hub that was frozen to the truck plus it allowed me to check the bearings and regrease them. Ultimately, several chisels, a big ford wrench(hammer), and an air chisel got the back half of the hub off, but it was a b%#ch. This is why I say get some anti-sieze. Every truck I've had to do this to was a pain the first time(similar to this one, but not as bad), but, after using anti-sieze on the problematic mating surfaces, anytime I had to get back in was a breeze. A breaker bar with a long piece of pipe to slide over the bar would be good too. The lower ball joint nut on mine would not break loose until I used a 4 ft pipe over the breaker bar to get more leverage. The breaker bar is also good for the 4 12-point bolts that hold the hub on. Good luck and hopefully someone can give you the specifics on the trick with the extension. I simply just don't want to relive it right now.

 

Does anyone have all of the torque specs? Big 1-11/16" nut, 4 bolts holding hub on, upper and lower ball joint, and steering arm to knuckleball joints torque? I have been looking for a good used service manual or cd but have not found one yet.

 

I bot new hubs from napa and their torque spec was 190ft. lbs. the bearings are sealed units, therefore preload is not determined by the axle shaft nut. just make them real tite, and you'll be fine. they have cotter pins to prevent backing out.

 

I have a pretty complete list of Napa Part numbers. it is an excel file. pm me your email adress if you would like it.

 

Thanks Smokey, will do!
Got a Napa nearby also, awesome.
Cheers
Dan

 

i should have mentioned, or put it on my list. If I do it again, I will make sure to have a few extra wheel studs. When taking off my hub extensions i ruined 2. I still feel dodge is far superior, but man ford knew what they were doing when they made there hib extensions, can get an impact on theirs.