I have a 96 2500 4x4 and I want to do a TOTAL front end rebuild. I just got this truck earlier this year and I want to fix/upgrade everything at once. I just put on a 2" leveling kit and ordered a Thuren adjustable track bar. The truck came with a DSS steering stabilizer. So what does that leave me with that I need to order. I have some ideas like Bilstein 2" longer shocks, u joints, ball joints, bearings. I want to make sure that I don't leave anything out though. Could someone help me make out a complete list of everything that I could replace on the front suspension and possible make brand suggestions. I have heard some good things about MOOG parts. What do you guys suggest. Thanks

 

Personally, what I am going with is a Thuren Complete Front end, along with the DSS brace. This includes the Trac bar, Control Arms, X-over Steering, Shock Mounts, and some nice Fox 2.0 Shocks.

-Jared

 

That sounds very nice, but maybe more $$$ than I would like to spend right now. If I had a lift, I would definitely go that route.

 

Tie rods, a-arm bushings, idler arm, pitman arm, new steering stabilizer.

Lots of good infor here:

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/balljoint.php

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/bodylift.php

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/dtbar.php

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/lift.php

Finally here is the whole list of tech how cto's. Scroll down a bit till you see the Dodge stuff.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/

 

Since when is Don doing CA's? This must be something new, I haven't talked to him in the last couple weeks.

If you're doing the shocks, I'd stay away from 2.0's on a 3/4 ton truck. For a few more bucks you can upgrade to a 2.5. The Kings are about $100/shock cheaper than the Fox in the 2.5.....

FWIW, I'm running the King 2.5's and they work REALLY well....Don did the valving for me.

You'll be very happy with the rest of Don's stuff, I've had all the stuff you listed except the control arms and so far it's lasted longer than any of the OEM stuff I've run.

 

I'd suggest forgetting the Moog parts and spending the money on the x-over steering. I did the same thing you're doing at 180K, and at 198K I dumped the last of the OEM steering components because the DW was coming back.

With the bent tie rod and drag link (required if you want to keep your sway bar mounts) the difference between the OEM replacements and Don's x-over steering was less than $100...

Other than that, you'll need upper and lower ball joints (Moog), cross joints, and u-joints (Spicer or Ox, if you have the $$$$). I have 225K on my front wheel bearings, 175K with 37" tires on them, and they're still fine. Shocks are a matter of personal preference, how much do you want to spend. Bilstein 5100 is a nice shock, probably the best you'll find for the money. I highly recommend them unless you're prepared to spend at least $300/shock....

Look over on dodgeram.org, there is are instruction there on how to adjust the preload in the steering box to tighten it up a little. That'll help some too.

Conrad

 

I agree, wait with the wheel bearings. I have 2 seasons of plowing and 190K on mine and they're both still nice and tight. Why thow $500 into parts only if you don't have to? I'd save that and spend it on the x-over steering.

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question but how can you tell if your wheel bearings are worn out. I have a constant squeaking noise that gets worse when I make a turn. I thought that it might be a bearing. I could be wrong though. I just email Thuren about adding the x-over steering. BTW my truck has 205,000 and I don't know if any of this stuff has ever been replaced.

 

Does the sound change when you step on the brakes?

Best way I've found to narrow it down is to pull the wheel and the caliper off and spin the rotor. You can also feel the hub at the center after you stop, if one side feels hotter than the other it's most likely a wheel bearing.

Sounds like a bearing to me, but at $200-250 each for wheel bearings, I'd wanna be sure.